Sunday, June 26, 2022

Project s/y Fanny Port Said to Kastelorizo and Rhodos

 Before arriving Med I had been watching the weather and it looked like we had a small chance of getting weather with us. As we exited the Canal it was obvious it wasn't going to happen, sods law I guess. The wind was blowing between W and NW and if we tried to getting a WSW course it was SW and going the other tack we went NNE. As Egypt was in the way and the weather blowing from NW I thought better take the better way and escape N wards, the wind might change (fat chance!). So we tacked and were effectively heading for Cyprus. The only comfort was that we were heading for EU at least. As we progressed further N we were able to come to a heading of NNW and avoided hitting Cyprus but then we had the mainland of Turkey ahead of us. 

Sunset



Sunset

As we closed in on Turkey having passed Cyprus on the night of 20th June we managed a N course and the wind was still WNW 8 - 12kts. The wind stayed like this until 21st morning when it started blowing W'ly 20-25kts. We were by then going along the Turkish coast trying to get some lee as the other tack would take us S. We were motoring between a group of Islands when I realised we were passing Greek territory. 

Kastelorizo village

So I proposed to Owner to get some rest from the misbehaving weather to which he agreed. My contacts at BWA got the arrival details sorted in few hours, we tied up in Kastelorizo and enjoyed a very nice lunch and dinner on the 21st June. As we were having lunch the Agent called us that Fanny is touching the jetty so we walked back to see what is going on. Turned out our anchor was not holding very well so a local guy let us use a fixed anchor as groundline. Our emergency anchor was not heavy enough to keep us off and we could not get enough length out in front despite we had 25m of rope connected to 25m of chain and a heavy anchor (the clutch on the anchor windlass was still useless). In the evening upon return to the boat I managed to fall in the port basin after dinner. We used our dinghy as gangway to keep the boat off the jetty and as I jumped in I lost balance and fell overboard. Some sailor. Washed my mobile in freshwater and put it in rice hoping for the best.

Kastelorizo, greek flag

Kastelorizo

Kastelorizo

Kastelorizo

Kastelorizo

Kastelorizo

Kastelorizo, in the old days (unknown photographer)

Kastelorizo, stern-to

Kastelorizo, harbour "monsters"

The next morning started with a swim in the fresh waters removing a ricebag or something similar from the prop. I guess we picked it up when maneuvering stern-to the previous day. As we got the rag off we departed but we had left too late. When we cleared the bay of Kastelorizo towards Rhodes the wind hit us, this time 30kts or more. The whole afternoon we tried to make headway until realisation of the futility of it and then hoisted sails on a South-westerly tack. The next night was like being in the Indian ocean jumping waves.

Kastelorizo

Kastelorizo, fishing "kaiki"

As the day and night wore on we came closer to Rhodes and at some point in early wee hours sails were lowered and we motored upwind a the wind died down a bit and the seas calmed as well. We motored into the Rhodes new marina early morning 23rd June. As we had tied up I started organising laundry and autopilot repairs. Also went ashore to get some fresh bread and Greek spinach and feta pies.

Rhodes

Later on we received onboard the local electronic guru, Ms Manolis Karras who went straight to work checking the autopilot. He found that the sensor that detects where the rudder is had failed and renewed it. Then he told us we need a hydraulic guy to check that part because it also had issues. Luckily Mr Karras knew another Mr Manolis who came the day after to check out the hydraulic side. They dismantled the whole actuator and took it to their workshop. 

Rhodes

The same evening Mr Manolis came to inform that us that there was a part broken that needed replacing and that there were no spares available. But not to worry, he knew a fabricator who could turn out the same part but he could not guarantee how long it would last, but the autopilot would work. Ok, said and done he came next day to install the actuator back and said it works. We could not test the autopilot alongside as it is an old model and needs a seatrial. As we were leaving the next morning we told him we will test it then and he said to call him if any issues.

Rhodes

As we had some time on our hands I showed Enok the Rhodes old town and surroundings. In evenings we sampled the food in restaurants close by the marina.. Excellent seafood was gotten in Paragadi fish taverna and the next evening in Kerasma.  The last afternoon we provisioned in Kritikos supermarket and as we struggled to find a taxi the market manager sent them to the marina with his van. It only had 2 seats so Enok got it and I walked back to marina with the Owner. 

Rhodes, old town seafront

Earlier in the day I managed to buy a new mobile phone as my old had suffered saltwater poisoning in Kastelorizo marina basin. The iRepair shop had bathed it in some solution abut said they'd need 2 weeks to get the parts to revive the phone. I didn't have the time so I kept the phone for a better opportunity. Even my tablet had given up the ghost and refused to take charge so the sea was taking revenge on my electronics. Luckily for me and thanks to cloud applications I had most data backed up so I hadn't lost anything. Whatever went to cyberheaven I think I wouldn't need anyway. 

Rhodes, port

We also got fresh water from the marina, electricity we did not need as the installed solar system kept us well supplied for that. As we had plenty of water out came the pressure washer, brushes and buckets and we washed Fanny from top to bottom and front to aft. The amount of dust and grime ingrained from passing Africa was astonishing. After we were done we could see clearly through the transparent awnings. As we were almost finished we were visited by George H from BWA bringing us special pies made as per another recipe from another Greek Island (the name I've forgotten but I think it was Symi). Very delicious pies. Greek pastries are among the best I've tasted.

Rhodes, grass dolphins at a roundabout

Rhodes, old town

Rhodes, old town

Rhodes, old water fountains

Rhodes, old town walls

Rhodes, old town walls

Rhodes, new marina

Rhodes, new marina

Rhodes, visiting coaster

Rhodes, old town walls

Rhodes, port

Rhodes, allegedly the port entrance where the worlds wonder stood

Rhodes, new marina, Turkish gulet

Rhodes, old town

Rhodes, old town walls

Rhodes, old town walls

Rhodes

Rhodes, ordered a large beer...

Rhodes, old town walls

Rhodes, old town walls

Rhodes, old town walls

Rhodes, old town walls

Rhodes harbor

Rhodes, walking back from Kritikos supermarket

As we now had been fixed and had a full fridge we had no more excuses to tarry we departed morning 26th for Amorgos hoping we would get there the next day. 

Rhodes old town

Rhodes, tourist hotels

Next part of the journey: Rhodes to Kalamata and La Seyne-sur-Mer

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