Turkish coast
We managed to cross the waters from Rhodes to Symi and onwards to Kos without difficulty. By then the wind was against coming from N/NW up to 30kts or more in gusts. In the night we managed to set a good course going along the S coast of Amorgos. The next morning we were rounding the W corner of the Island we had 40kts against us so decided to continue straight to Kalamata where we could check out and continue towards France. We all needed this trip to end.
Turkish coast
Turkish coast, off Bodrum
Turkish coast
Amorgos, strong winds from North
Lighthouse of Akrotirio
Having ditched the plan for Amorgos we continued more or less on same heading, passed S of Milos and N of Kythira into the Gulf of Messina towards Kalamata. Weather was for once a bit better and at the end we had to motor when the wind died altogether. I had messaged ahead and booked a berth. We arrived just after sunset and it was pretty dark. The marina entrance is not very generous as well as it it requires a 90deg turn to enter inside the wave breaker. Luckily our berth was immediately there as we came into the marina basin, we gave stern lines and tightened groundlines stern to and that was us arrived. We were met by our local Agent and agreed we'd go for formalities the next day to check out of Greece. Then went for dinner at a local Italian style restaurant.
Lighthouse of Akrotirio
Kalamata marina
Kalamata marina, view from restaurant
Kalamata town
Kalamata town
The next day we were picked up by the Agent and she took us around town for a bit of provisioning and, of course, to get some Greek olive oil. For those that don't know, Kalamata is the olive oil capital in Greece. Finally we had the Agents car loaded with Greek delicacies we went to a bakery and bought sweet pastries and then we returned to the marina. As we were driving around she was telling us bits and pieces of history of the city and pointing out places of interest. As we were on a mission we could not tarry and Kalamata would warrant a few days discovery. At the office we paid the bill and we unloaded the car into Fanny and we departed. The weather was turning against us, I'm guessing local breeze, luckily we cast off just in time as we already struggled to turn us out. The boat next to us with a German couple shouted blue murder when I leaned Fanny a bit on their fenders. Oh well, after some wrangling I managed to get the stern clear of the jetty and could shoot into the turning basin and head out of the marina.
Kalamata town
Greek coast, Peloponnese
Greek coast, Peloponnese
Greek coast, Peloponnese
Greek coast, Peloponnese
As we then sailed off we enjoyed pretty good weather for a change and we set to cross the Adriatic towards the boot of Italy. Looking at the weather we decided to skip Malta and instead take the shorter route that was through Messina strait. Had we come S of Crete instead of through the Greek archipelago, as we had done, it would have made sense to stop in Malta but from Kalamata it was a detour for us. The weather forecast also did not bode well W of Sicily so Messina strait it was.
Greek coast, Peloponnese, last view before crossing over to Italy
Leaving the Greek coast we had wind from our side or a bit astern of us so we hoisted the Code "C", then next day in the afternoon as we were digesting our lunch suddenly the sail came flying down into the sea. At first I thought the guy had slipped or broken but then I realised the hoisting stay had broken. We scrambled on fore deck and pulled the sail on deck. Somehow the lanyard had chafed off, we inspected the topside in Suez and everything looked good then. We saw the other end up on top wrapped around the wind instrument so we hoisted Enok up, wind was only 5kts or so, to try and untangle and bring down the end so we could bring up the Code "C". Unfortunately the weight of the rope pulled the end very quickly down in the mast and Enok was not fast (or tall) enough to grab it so down it went. No worries, we unfurled the jib and continued.
Sunset
On the 1st of July we were skirting the bottom of Italy and we entered Straits of Messina after sunset. We'd had good currents sucking us in the Strait and as we kept close to the coast we did not get too bad counter current as it was due just as we passed. There is a neat website showing currents in the Strait but on mobile phones it works so-so, requiring refreshers now and then.
Procida Is, off Naples
Next morning we passed Naples and headed N along the Italian coast. We also spotted a whale the same day floating on the surface. Naturally had the daily dolphins with us as usual. At times we could also see sword fish jumping.
Procida Is, off Naples
Coast off Naples
On 4th of July afternoon I was watching the fuel gauges as we were motoring again. They were showing empty despite few hours as they had been on 1/4 or so. Conferred with the Owner that we should head for nearest marina and bunker some motion lotion and he readily agreed. We still had abt 70litres of diesel in our spare cans so I emptied them into the main tanks 50/50 to port and starboard. The gauges jumped up to 1/4. It was obvious they were not very accurate at low levels. I called in before hand an was told to head to Cala Galera for fuel and looking at the distance it would take us 3hrs to get there. We got told we could enter when we arrived, the fuel dock was just after entrance and another boat was just finishing up and the attendant boys waved us to approach.
Tempio headland, off Cala Galera
We went alongside with the bow pointing out to sea and tied up. Whilst Enok and Owner bunkered I went for a quick walk and got a tub of Italian gelato from the local bar (and a couple of beers to go). As I arrived back onboard the bunkering was just completing and it turned out we had taken 920ltrs onboard. It means we had 80litres on arrival and when I poured in the remaining spare fuel we had been going on fumes. Talk about just in time. The stop here was the shortest during the whole trip, after less than an hour we were on or way again and rounded the Tempio headland towards he Island of Giglio (where the infamous Schettino grounded Costa Concordia in 2012). We went S of the Island due to weather being more in our favour and from there we headed towards Island of Elba leaving it to the E and Corsica to our W.. From there we took a heading towards San Remo.
Tempio headland, off Cala Galera
Island of Giglio, Punta Rosso, sunset
Island of Giglio, Punta Rosso
Corsica N point, Giraglia lighthouse
Sunset
On the 5th July we crossed our last big expanse of sea from Corsica to the Italian and French Riviera. We motored all the way as there was hardly any wind.
Sunset
France, Pointe de Salis, off Toulon
France, Pointe de Salis, off Toulon
On the 6th July we puttered along the Riviera and weaved between other leisure boats and yachts. We passed all the famous places, like Monaco, Nice, Cannes & St Tropez. As we were coming closer to Toulon the wind once again was coming up a bit and we got some swell before entering the bay. First we passed all the naval ships, on our left there were some old navy ships I assume for training or something. On our right was the big base with all sorts of grey ships tied up. As we got into the port the wind came up to 20kts against us and funny enough we were making only 3-4 knots at one point. There was a mistral developing in the Gulf of Lyon and it was already sending whiffs of the impending onslaught of wind to come.
France, Pointe de Salis, off Toulon
We kept going and slowly but surely we got off La Seyne-sur-Mer. As agreed the marina boys met us on arrival and showed us our berth where to tie up. Finally we had arrived at 1806hrs, stepping off on the jetty and looking at the small 14m glassfibre vessel safely moored. It was a great feeling of elation and it was hard to grasp it had carried us all that way without any major issues. It had taken us 111 days since we departed Thailand on 30th March and 7756 nautical miles to get here. There was no brass band or fanfare but we had us a nice arrival party that same evening.
Actual route taken, Navionics screenshot
The next day was time to leave, kind of sad but also happy to have to come to a happy and successful conclusion. Sure, the Owner had a lot of things on his "to-do" list for the coming winter but it was a potpourri of wear and tear, perhaps a bit poor workmanship in Thailand and the vessels age included. I got a ride to Toulon train station, shook hands with the Owner and jumped on the train towards Italy, going back to my Hobbit hole to look for my next unexpected journey, whenever that may be.
Alongside in La Seyne-sur-Mer after 7756'
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