Anny von Hamburg with sails
Skysail
Ship’s Log: Mariehamn to Turku
Four autumn days aboard the classic schooner Anny von Hamburg, story & pictures by Juha Pokka
There are few better ways to experience the Finnish Archipelago than from the deck of a traditional sailing ship.
From Thursday to Sunday, the classic schooner Anny von Hamburg made her way from Mariehamn in Åland to Turku in mainland Finland, calling at Degerby, Lappo and Nagu along the way.
The voyage covered four days of generally mild autumn weather, with moderate winds and temperatures typical of early October.
Crew up in the mast for final adjustments in the rig
* * * * *
Thursday, 1 October
Mariehamn → Degerby
At 12:45, Anny von Hamburg departed from Mariehamn.
The first leg of the voyage took the schooner south-east through the Åland archipelago towards Degerby, on Föglö.
Weather observations from the Turku area for 1 October indicate temperatures reaching approximately 17 °C, with a low around 5 °C and average winds from the south-southeast at about 3 m/s.
Conditions were therefore relatively mild for the beginning of October, with light to moderate winds — favourable conditions for making the first passage through the archipelago.
As Anny made her way between the islands, the landscape was already unmistakably autumnal: wooded shores, granite outcrops and narrow channels surrounding the vessel on every side.
By the end of the day's sailing, the schooner reached Degerby.
Anny von Hamburg in Degerby
The first leg was complete.
* * * * *
Friday, 2 October
Degerby → Lappo
Friday brought another day of relatively gentle autumn weather.
From Degerby, ANNY continued through the Åland archipelago towards Lappo.
The weather observations indicated a cooler day than Thursday, with temperatures around 12–15 °C in the Turku area and average winds from the south-southeast at approximately about 3 m/s.
For a sailing vessel navigating the sheltered waters of the archipelago, these moderate conditions made for a comfortable passage.
The route between Degerby and Lappo is typical of Åland sailing: relatively short distances as the crow flies can become much longer when following the safe channels between the islands.
And that is part of the attraction.
The destination is never simply "over there".
The ship has to follow the sea.
Anny von Hamburg in Lappo
By Friday, Anny had reached Lappo, another small island community in the Åland archipelago.
* * * * *
Saturday, 3 October
Lappo → Nagu
Saturday marked the transition from Åland into the Finnish Archipelago.
Leaving Lappo behind, Anny continued eastwards towards Nagu (Nauvo).
The weather remained favourable.
Going up the rig
At the Turku/Rajakari observation station, conditions around Saturday showed temperatures of approximately 14–15 °C, with a west-southwesterly to southwesterly wind around 5 m/s and gusts reaching approximately 6–7 m/s.
In Nagu
The broader Turku observations give a similar picture, with a Saturday average wind from the south-southwest at about 3 m/s and a daytime high around 16 °C.
These were very respectable conditions for an October sailing voyage.
In Nagu
The route now passed through the extensive waters of the Turku Archipelago.
Although the county border had been crossed, the character of the landscape remained familiar: islands, skerries, forests, exposed granite and sheltered channels.
By Saturday, Anny had reached Nagu.
Three days into the voyage, the schooner had travelled from the Åland capital through two distinct archipelago regions — but the sea still connected them as one continuous sailing landscape.
* * * * *
Sunday, 4 October
Nagu → Turku
The final day.
From Nagu, Anny von Hamburg set course for Turku.
The wind had shifted during the voyage. Regional observations for Sunday show average winds from the west-southwest at approximately 3.4 m/s. The temperature reached around 14 °C, with a morning low of approximately 7 °C.
Closer to Turku, observations recorded a westerly wind of around 8 m/s at one point, with stronger gusts.
The final approach therefore brought somewhat fresher conditions than the beginning of the voyage.
But the destination was close.
At approximately 13:00, Anny entered the Aura River and arrived alongside Forum Marinum in Turku.
The voyage was complete.
After arrival followed 'laundry' day
* * * * *
Four Days — Four Ports
In just four days, Anny von Hamburg sailed from the Åland capital to the Finnish mainland:
Thursday
⚓ Mariehamn → Degerby
Friday
⚓ Degerby → Lappo
Saturday
⚓ Lappo → Nagu
Sunday
⚓ Nagu → Turku
The voyage took place in generally mild early-autumn conditions, with temperatures mostly in the low to mid-teens Celsius during the daytime and moderate winds, becoming somewhat fresher towards the Turku arrival.
For Anny von Hamburg, however, this was more than simply a four-day passage.
Built in 1914, the schooner was originally a working cargo vessel. More than a century later, she continues to sail the Baltic — now carrying crew and visitors rather than cargo, but still moving under the power of wind and seamanship.
From the harbour at Mariehamn to the Aura River in Turku, the route passed through some of the most intricate sailing waters of the Baltic.
Åland and Finland.
Four days.
Three island calls.
Hundreds of islands and skerries.
One classic schooner.
And on Sunday afternoon, Anny von Hamburg was safely alongside in Turku.
Another voyage completed.
Another chapter added to a sailing history stretching back more than a century.
Fair winds from Anny von Hamburg.
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