Turku - Tallinn - Riga - Warszaw - Berlin - Paris - Italy

Having done my admin I wasn't keen on flying back, at least not with Vueling on the grueling flight from Barcelona - Helsinki that I had arrived with. 

Turku house with fresh snow 

For some odd reason the usual Nice - Central Europe - Helsinki or direct Nice - Helsinki flight was not available at all so I had my only option as Nice - Barcelona - Helsinki. I also got the first feel of paying for overhead luggage so only free option was a 40x20x30cm bag under the seat. I was traveling with a rucksack that was a bit longer than specified but nobody caught on, still it made traveling awkward having my booted feet cramped in and sitting upright like in a church for 4 hours. So, I decided I'll make my way down south by land and do a little road trip via the Baltic states and then Germany and France to Italy.

Helsinki metro

I called my childhood friend Taru asking if she'd like to catch up the weekend before I head over the Gulf of Finland. Subsequently she proposed a night at their summer villa on the island of Villinki together with her brother. I agreed and we set to meet on Saturday morning to set off towards the island. I took the early bus from Turku, bid my mum goodbye until next time and sat down for the few hour trip. 

Entry to Villinki Island

As I arrived Kamppi I switched to local trains and then met Taru at Herttoniemi where we got some provisions and met Arto, her brother. From there we then went by car to Jollas to take the boat over to Villinki. The boat was effectively covered in snow from the recent downpour and had to "dig" it out from under the shroud, she started well and soon enough we were on our way. The weather was sunny and fantastic, one could hear gunshots echoing over the waters form the garrison at Santahamina. The entrance to Taru's and Arto's villa was into a narrow and winding channel that went inside the island several hundreds meters, a truly spectacular entry.

Villinki Island

As we made fast to the Island we lugged all provisions and bags to the villa and set to heat up the kitchen and cook some lunch. As the day went on it became overcast and soon enough the snow was pelting over us horizontally in a stiff breeze. Luckily we didn't have to be anywhere and had enough food and firewood to sustain us. We also heated up another bedroom and had 3 beds there so we could all share the same room. The evening went on with some board games and I cooked dinner, sometime close to midnight it was time to hit the sack and I crawled into my bed with plenty of duvets on me. By this time the weather had passed us and it was all quiet.

Villinki Island

Next morning was again sunny, maybe a tad windier than previous day but it wasn't strong at all. We got up for breakfast and then started to put things together and the 2 siblings prepared the house for the winter anticipating this was perhaps the last time at the villa before next summer. Soon enough we were again lugging stuff into the boat and headed back to the mainland. There was still several swan "families" about, I was wondering that they had not already taken to the skies and migrated south. Arto told me that they sometimes stay over the winter if the water stays open, if not, they'll fly south or somewhere they can find food.

Villinki Island

It had been a nice time for catch up with my 2 friends as I had not seen Arto since I was a kid and the last time I met Taru was a year ago. On the island and villa itself I had not been since I was a kid, it had burned down by thunder and lightning in between times but then rebuilt by the insurance to old drawings, it looked as far as I could see the same as when I was there in the early 80's. I still do recall the staggering amounts of flounder that we caught back then and smoked for dinner. I hope I can try revisit another summer. 

Helsinki ferry terminal

As we arrived the mainland, Arto gave me a ride to the ferry terminal for Estonia, I took Eckerö lines ferry m/s Finlandia for Tallinn. Getting onboard her elicited some old memories of my ferry trips to Sweden as she was quite an old lady. Bought a plate of food for lunch and watched the sun go down as we motored towards Estonia. Arrived in good order and disembarked easily, I was picked up by a friend and colleague Karl who took me to my lodgings and we went out for a bite of dinner and catch up.

Tallinn lodgings

I stayed in an old wooden house that looked ready to be knocked down but had small rooms for rent. The room I've taken near the bus station was quite nicely made up with bed and bath, freebie drinks (tea, coffee, porridge, etc packets) and cooking facilities. Nice option for someone traveling with a limited budget.

Tallinn central bus station

I was up early morning and packed up my stuff after a morning coffee and toilet. I had chosen this location as it was next to the bus station so there was no hassle chasing up taxi or transport, I just had a 5min walk over to the terminal. There I found a kiosk selling sandwiches and juices so I had some breakfast whilst waiting for the bus to rock up. I entertained myself by reading big posters about the history of Hungarian made "Ikarus" buses that made most of eastern Europe roll around back in the day.

Poster of the historical "Ikarus" buses from Hungary

Soon enough the Flixbus rolled up to the platform, our passports were checked before boarding and then we departed on time. The bus was not very full so I got to sprawl out on the bench I had booked. The Estonian countryside was also pretty snow covered but less than in Finland. The architecture was mainly wooden houses and some of them pretty old, probably from Soviet times, as they had been painted with the typically Russian green color. Other than that I think it did not differ that much from Finnish countryside, maybe a tad older and also different way of building, the planks were horizontally on the walls whereas mostly in Finland planks are nailed on vertically.

Parnu bus station

Soon enough we passed Parnu bus station and continued towards Riga, we didn't stop at the border but trundled on through the countryside that didn't change much, maybe some more dilapidated houses here and there that dotted the side of the roads.

"Russian" green houses

Latvian houses

Latvian countryside

As we rolled into Riga I had again booked lodgings near the bus station and inside the old town of Riga. I checked in without issues but had to go ask for another room as the lock was not working. As that problem was solved I set out for a walk as long as I had daylight. I had never been in Riga before except changing planes so it was all new to me. The old town was dotted by old buildings from 17-1800's era, probably built by German artisans back in the day. Apart from the river Daugava there was a small quaint waterway called Pilsetas kanal that wound its way through the city. Over Daugava itself there was a lot of traffic and few bridges, over the river I could see a weird building that was the National Library.

Sunset in Riga

I also met up with an ex colleague, Stan, for dinner at a fancy medieval themed restaurant, Rosengrals, where they surprisingly had also good food. As I've given up on fermented stuff I was offered "kvas" to drink which was a nice change to my usual water. Their signature dish with wild boar was finished so I settled on lambs leg which was really good. Had a good catch up with "Stan the man" and soon enough we had eaten dessert and it was time to head for bed, Stan to his family, me to my hotel.

Riga Pilsetas kanals

Riga 

Dinner at Rosengrals (Vinarium civitatis rigensis)

Next morning I had breakfast at the hotel and a short walk to the bus station. This was going to be a longer leg as I was running out of days, namely bus to Warszaw and change for another to Berlin. Would have liked to stay overnight in Warszaw but my days were coming up short and I hadn't still thought of the full itinerary as I made it up as I went along.

Riga old town

View from Riga bus station over the Pilsetas kanals

Lithuanian countryside

Seen from the bus, "Istros aviaparkas" aviation museum

The Flixbus was again on time, I chucked my backpack into the hold, settled into my seat and soon enough we were on our way. This time the bus was much fuller and a bit older than the Tallin - Riga bus, no wi-fi either. The Latvian and Lithuanian countryside was more or less the same, a bit of a change in scenery brought us when we went through the city of Kaunas. The snow was getting less and less. Shortly after there was a small stop and one could buy refreshments at the station, I got my customary fridge magnet too.

Lithuanian buildings

Then it already became dark and we arrived Warszaw, I looked at my watch and thought I have about 30min for the next bus for Germany and I went out looking for some dinner. The busdriver showed me that the next bus I was going to go with departed on the platform next where we'd arrived. So I found a a restaurant that was incidentally somekind of Asian effort, the staff was from Vietnam. Pointed to the menu with picture of chicken and then also got a breadroll and some water to go, the total came up to 50. I thought to myself 50 what? Euros? I thought it is a bit steep but I was hungry and short of time so I paid, then I realized it was zloty's that equaled to about 11EUR. Eventually got myself a dish of chicken and rice with sauce, I wolfed it down and dashed outside to look for my bus.

Kaunas

There was no bus to be seen and I asked some people on the platform if they were headed to Berlin. I only got headshakes. I roamed the platforms looking at buses but they were all going somewhere else or were other companies from what I've booked. I was looking at my watch and the bus had already left according to schedule so I headed inside the terminal and asked the lady at the ticket counter if she knew this bus if it was late or where it was going from as I had  not seen any? She looked at me like cheap sausage and said "You have Polish time?".

Kaunas

Then it hit me that Poland was not in the Baltic timezone but in central European zone which was 1h later. Then she said the platform number that and that & I  had 50minutes until departure. I excused myself and thanked her for the info. Now I regretted that I wolfed down the nice plate of food from the Vietnamese restaurant, I could have enjoyed it properly. I roamed the station and got my fridge magnets for Poland and soon enough the bus appeared on the platform and we embarked again. This time the bus was quite full again, same old no wi-fi and pretty tight chairs. Rest was not good.

Warszawa central bus station

As we passed the Polish German border the police checked everyone's travel documents, incidentally they found a chap without ID so they took him away. He didn't look too bothered about it so I guess maybe he was one of those on a jolly. I arrived early in Berlin and was met by my friend Marne whom I had taken up the mountain in Italy and she said that if I ever visited Berlin she'd show me around. I hadn't expected her to get up for me this early as we arrived around 0500hrs, she took me to her house and I got a few hours kip before getting up again and ready for visiting Berlin.

Brandenburg Tor, Berlin

Brandenburg Tor, Berlin

Then I just took the metro into the centre of city and got off at Brandenburg Tor, ambled about awhile and saw a rickshaw (electric driven) standing alone with signs on for tours etc. So I talked to the chap and we settled on a 1h tour showing the most famous landmarks of Berlin.

Tourist traps the berlin way

So we circled around the Brandenburg Tor, then around Reichstag, the French and Italian church, the Berlin Dome, the Berlin wall and finally the TV tower. The guide was very well versed in his subject so I got immediate culture shock by all the info that was poured over me. Interesting but it is only so much the hard disk can accept these days. Luckily it was only one hour as the weather was a bit nippy it got cold sitting in the rickshaw so I soon got walking, I walked back from the TV tower to the Brandenburg Tor, had a curry wurst and as the sun started setting I headed back to Marne's.

Remaining section of the Berlin wall dividing east and west

Berlin metro

At the house Marne and her daughter were one with their days work and took me to Kurfurstendamm shopping street, there I saw the famous KaDeWe mall that is equal to Harrod's of London. I didn't venture in as I had nothing really to buy, I had already gotten my fridge magnets earlier. We walked up and down the long avenue whilst the ladies popped in some shops I stayed outside. The Kaiser Wilhelm memorial church along there was off limits and dark, it gave an eerie atmosphere with its dark gaping windows against the backdrop of Christmas lighting. Having the shopping concluded we had pizza at a busy restaurant in the area. It was very tasty but the loud music together with a lot of loud people in the venue made it a bit tiring.

Berlin victory column after Prussian-Danish war

The next day I was going to follow Marne down south to Kochum where I was then to continue towards Paris. As I had the morning free I went back to the centre and visited the Neues Museum where they house the Egyptian collection and the famous bust of Nefertiti. It was quite interesting and got feelings of Indiana Jones in parts of it as it had been built like a pyramid temple in places. Some hours later I was back in the metro and headed for Marne's, we had quick lunch and she said goodbye to her daughter as she was heading for some time off with friends in Kochum. The drive was easy along the autobahn, not too much traffic but again we ran out of daylight and arrived some 6hrs later.

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus Des Westens) on Kurfurstendamm

Neues museum - Egyptian collection

Neues museum - Egyptian collection

Neues museum - Egyptian collection, book of the dead scroll

In Kochum I met a couple of Marne's friends who offered some dinner for us and then I checked into a youth hostel. Interestingly the local hotels were very pricey compared and even the hostel set me back some 70EUR for a night in a single room (breakfast included). Next morning I woke up early for breakfast, got myself sorted and walked off to the train station, again it was conveniently at walking distance. I passed through the party street of Kochum, it was a walking street lined with venues on both sides, reminded me sort of Hamburg. At the trainstation I was battling with the ticket vending machines and got forst by mistake a childrens fare and then a very expensive local train fare, I guess I lost a few euros there, anyway the show must go on so I got on the train for Essen.

Bust of Nefertiti

Whilst on the train those few stations to Essen I used Google maps to find how I was going to get to Paris as I was not able to buy the whole shebang in Kochum and it appeared I had to buy each leg separately. So next leg was then Essen to Aachen that I got from Deutsche Bahn, the leg after that was Aachen to Brussels that I also got from Deutsche Bahn. The Brussels - Paris, Gare du Nord I got from SNCF. Having done that I had to decide where I was going to stay so I checked on SNCF where the train south to Nice was going from, it was Gare du Lyon. So I checked booking.com for suitable hotels near the station and booked 2 nights. 

Kochum train station

Aachen trainstation

Aachen trainstation

Aachen trainstation

Essen to Aachen didn't take long, then I had some time in Aachen before the train to Brussels would depart I was walking around the station ogling at local architecture. Soon enough the train came and onwards the tracks took me to Brussels. In Brussels I had over an hour which was good in the sense that it was pretty chaotic, there were long queues of Brits cursing their misfortune of voting for Brexit referring to various sh*tshows also involving Belgian organization. Looked like their train was late, cancelled or something along those lines. Took me awhile to understand which platform I was going to depart from but eventually found it after I had gotten some takeaway from the Pret-a-manger shop.

Brussels train station

I was well in time for the train and was happily munching away at my takeaway sandwich and flushing it down with sips of coffee. Eventually the train came, I counted 8 bogies but my ticket said my carriage was no 16. An attendant said to wait for another train and some time later, now the train departure was a bit late, more carriages turned up and I saw no 16 at the end, so I got on and found my seat. Then just before departure I turned out that they had changed my carriage number from 16 to 8 and there were some discussions coming up about that last minute change. 

TGV arrived Paris Gare du Nord

I got my stuff and headed to the door but the platform attendant said it is ok and ushered me back in as the train was departing, so I was without a seat as there was no doors connecting 9-16 carriages to 1-8 carriages. I was now feeling sympathetic towards the Brits left behind in their queues in Brussels and I also had some thoughts about Belgian organization. So I walked down the aisle until I found a vacant seat and plonked myself down, luckily nobody came to claim the seat and I sat there all the way until we reached Gare du Nord.

Paris, La Seine river

Having reached Gare du Nord I now had to navigate the metro to reach Gare de Lyon. It wasn't difficult, I got tickets and all. They still looked the same as when I had last been in Paris some 50 years ago, only color had changed from yellow to white. As I got on the metro I saw the passengers had  also changed from white to black. I got off at Gare de Lyon and marched onwards to Timhotel nearby. Easily checked in and got a room that was free of bedbugs, at the time of writing I still feel infestation free. 

Paris, souvenir sellers

The receptionist explained her breakfast spiel and I asked for some venues close by for dinner and she recommended Cafe Populaire. I retired to my room and relaxed from all the sitting and swapping trains, then headed out for dinner and came back for the night, next day was going to be very touristic as I had also booked myself entry into Louvre in the afternoon. I also got my TGV ticket from Paris to Nice and the connection to Italy.

Paris Notre Dame

In the morning I slept late but managed to catch some breakfast and then I headed out on town. Despite thinking of myself late the Parisians were that too. The souvenir and book sellers along the Seine were only opening up as I walked past them. I walked past the Bassin l'Arsenal towards Ile St Louis and up the river past Notre Dame that was still being refurbished. I didn't check if the venue was open but apparently, acc. to news, world leaders was to attend here for am upcoming service so apparently the repairs were at an end. Soon I could see the towers of Eiffel and Louvre. After Ile de Cite' I popped over the river and walked through Jardin des Tuileries, saw the Arch of the Caroussel, the octagonal pool, the multiple statues along the walk and the bare trees. It must look spectacular in the spring when the fresh leaves come out. 

Arc de Triomphe de Carrousel at Jardin des Tulieres

Somekind of tourist scam was still going on as I had at regular intervals young girls coming up with clipboards asking if I speak English, I just replied no and walked on. The Garden went on for ages but finally I reached the octagonal pool and got out of the gardens and circled the Egyptian obelisk at the Concord, from there I saw the beginning of the Champs Elysees but I walked over the river again at he Pont Alexandre III bridge, there a wide boulevard opened towards the Hotel des Invalides (Series of army museums including a church & the tombs of many famed officers, including Napoleon.). I didn't go in but veered off to the right towards Eiffel tower. 

Top of the Arc de Triomphe

One of the many tops of Louvre

Place de Concord with the Egyptian obelisk

I trundled on through an area with residential and office blocks and it looked quite boring until a I turned a corner and in front of me was the Eiffel tower in all its majesty. Behind it was the Jardin de la Tour Eiffel and further on Champ de Mars the Grand Palais de Ephemere. Here I was again attached by the girls with clipboards but I again quickly walked away circling the tower and headed for the bridge towards the Place de Trocadero.

Eiffel tower

Eiffel tower

I was walking over the Pont d'lena and it was at this time flooded with people. I saw a local man playing the harmonica and singing French chansons. Another British couple got engaged as the guy popped the question and they were all emotional and had posters, obviously he had played it safe. I told them congratulations and walked on. After the wish I saw in front me the Fontaine de Varsovie but I veered off to the right and headed up the side streets. 

Arc de Triomphe proper

Arc de Triomphe

There I came by the statue of Lafayette and Washington and then I realized that I was walking through the square of United States. From there a bit further I ended up to the Arc de Triomphe, the proper one (Iconic triumphal arch built to commemorate Napoleon's victories, with an observation deck). I didn't get up on the deck but took a few snaps from the ground and headed to the metro as my window to visit Louvre was coming up and didn't have the time to walk 45min to Louvre as well as I was getting a bit tired as I had been walking abt 10km already and I hadn't stopped even for a coffee.

Avenue des Champs Elysees towards the Place de la Concord

It took me awhile to find the metro station but followed the signs in a labyrinthine tunnels under the Arc de Triomphe and lucky me got onto the train to the right direction, there was though suddenly many more stops than I anticipated but eventually I reached the "Musee du Louvre" stop and got off. There was plenty people about and saw humongous queues to the ticket offices but as I already had a ticket I thought there must be a better way in than standing in line. 

Miniature over Louvre and Jardin des Tuileries

I asked a girl with the Louvre logo and she directed me to go to the pyramid in the courtyard. I duly went and and found some more staff that checked my ticket and sent me to the right queue that was much shorter, I still had plenty of time so I was just looking at the people around me as 4G was down or overloaded here, no signal at all. Around 3pm the queue moved and we were let into the large antehall of the Louvre after a security check. There I could go to the toilet, the garderobe, cafe and souvenir shop. It was huge, I grabbed a map from the information and started towards the wings where Mona Lisa is displayed. 

Egyptian sarcophagi

Egyptian sarcophagi

Egyptian God Bes

The circuit started again with Egyptian items, it was kind of interesting to see after recently having seen the German collection in Berlin to compare who's was better. I think perhaps Paris had better sarcophagi after all but in the end of the day both were pretty similar. I was quickly out cultured on Indiana Jones and soon I was walking past displays not really seeing them and I ended up walking for an exit that wasn't open so I had to walk all the way back to get to the Mona-Lisa wing, I saw also lot of royal era furniture and small haberdashery they needed back in the day. Like snuff and pocket watches.

Pocket watches from 1700's

La Joconda (or Mona Lisa)

Having walked back one wing I finally came to the right wing and saw signs for La Joconda (Mona Lisa) and I went on heels clonking on the floorboards. There was a multitude of paintings around now and I admired also the fantastic ceiling paintings. My feet were hurting now more and more, I had been going since morning and was exhausted. I had soon spent 2hrs in the Louvre that was enough for me so I decided just to see the Mona Lisa and be off to the hotel, there is only so much culture one can take in one day.

Louvre inner courtyard and entrance at the pyramid

I soon came into the hall with Mona Lisa, it was as said in many publications a quite small painting, she was crowded by maybe 100 odd persons in front so I didn't want to go wrestling myself in there and was content to get a few snaps off her and look at it above the heads of others. Then I headed for the exit that turned out to be quite the slog again, I managed to get out into the ante hall and fetch my coat, quick visit to the little boys room and out the door. As I walk past the point of no return the underground tunnel turned into what one could say something in the middle of a mall and a fairground. Souvenirs were sold, there were games, cafe's, etc but I walked past all this and soon I was outside the Louvre, crossing the inner courtyard and then took the bridge over the river Seine.

Paris - Bassin de l'Arsenal

From there I followed pretty much the old route back to my hotel, the sun had set so I was walking in the cold night air towards Gare de Lyon. The total walk turned out to be around 13km on the streets, I have no idea how much I covered inside Louvre but spent 2hrs or so walking around there. On the way back the street peddlers were closing shop so I took advantage and got my mandatory fridge magnets of some Paris sights. At around 1830hrs I reached Cafe Populaire and I was relieved to finally be able to sit down and have something to drink, I was really going on fumes. In the end I have to admit that Paris is so filled with art at every corner that one could probably go on here for years discovering new things to see in the city.

Gare de Lyon

I ordered a steak for dinner and had 2 zero beers to wash it down. After awhile as I felt I could muster some energy to move back to my hotel around the corner I got up to pay and told the barmaid it was my last day and she replied in English where am I going. As she learned I'm going to Italy she said she's from Sicily, what a small world. I told her I am not going quite that far into Italy then I paid and shuffled off. I was really sore and hobbled towards my hotel, got to my room and freed my feet from my boots. It didn't take long for me to set my alarm and drift off to the land of nod.

Gare de Lyon

In the morning I didn't feel too sore anymore, my feet definitely still felt a bit but having had double socks with woolies it had softened the impact. My lower back was somehow sore too, maybe I had found some muscles I hadn't used for awhile? I had my breakfast and paid my dues at the reception and having checked out I walked the short distance to Gare de Lyon and quickly found my platform, it was straight in front of me so I didn't have to go gallivanting around the station. Soon enough the TGV rolled in the platform and this time I found the right bogie and seat. 

Valle de Argentina

The train ride didn't take long considering I was going through all of France, in 5hrs I was down along the Mediterranean coast, it was sunny and blue skies could be seen. My spirits lifted immediately and as we rolled into Nice I got off and looked for my connection to Ventimiglia. There I had time for coffee and then I was off again towards my last leg. There I was met by my friend Ute who took me up the mountain to my hobbit hole. It had been a long journey, certainly not cheaper than flying even if only considering ticket prices. It had taken me a ferry, 3 buses, a car ride and 7 different trains to reach home. Always interesting to see something else than clouds...