Saturday, April 02, 2022

Project s/y Fanny - Thailand to Malaysia

 After having done the rounds in Phuket I one evening met a Malaysian chap that had been refurbishing a 10yr old second hand 45' Lagoon catamaran for the purpose of world wide traveling. 

P fwd guest cabin
Saloon
Galley & fridge
Radio corner
Freezer and coffee station
Fly bridge
Owner's looking fwd to bathroom
Aft deck seating & Dometic fridge

Eventually his skipper had bailed out as he had no Covid vaccinations. So I told him I could do it for him if he really needed and later in February he contacted me and offered a lumpsum for me to do the project which was:

- Outfitting and provisioning the boat for an ocean passage;

- Passage planning with the caveats of the Owner from Phuket, Thailand to Toulon, France;

- Handling all port formalities;

- Changing flag from Thai to Malaysian (part of the purchase deal) paperwork;

- Insurance and satcomms.

First part of the voyage
Last part of the voyage

Whilst I was getting busy with lists and taking inventory of the sailing boat "Fanny" the Owner himself concentrated on getting the refit finished. Unfortunately the time went on as he got Covid, then his contractors got Covid. Furthermore, it became apparent that we could not enter Malaysia before 1st April due to their Covid restrictions. The weather window was already closing.

Finishing BBQ for all parties involved
Party moved under the hull as it was pouring rain

It was also a big change for me as I had never sailed a small glassfibre yacht over any ocean. I had prior experience from few charter holidays in the Mediterranean on mono hulls so working a catamaran was also new to me. 

Fanny had ample space for her size, 2 cabins on the port hull with ensuites and whole of sb hull for the Owner. In the middle was the saloon with a cooking corner, a fridge and a freezer and nooks and crannies to put dry stores in. Friend of mine was selling a portable 220/12V fridge/ freezer chest of 90ltr that complemented our cooling storage. Forward where the crew cabins had been - they had been converted to tool and line stores.

Then my friend Enok joined to help us out and 3 pairs of hands is always better than 2 pairs. We compiled lists and visited shops to see the produce on offer and in the end decided to provision at Makro. Before that I had driven to shipchandlers at Royal Phuket Marina and Ao Chalong in search of small bits and bobs for the rigging and other fittings that we needed. We changed a few halyards, fixed hardware on anchors, got spareline for the spare anchor, renewed the dinghy hoisting ropes.

New dinghy, local product
Ready to go on shiplift
Moving the cradle under for moving
At anchor off yacht haven marina

Finally Fanny had been painted and we had all provisions onboard so on 21st March she was launched into the sea. We spent a day puttering up and down in front of Yacht Haven testing systems and instruments and everything was working to our satisfaction. 

We anchored off the marina for the night and had dinner at Bamboo bar next to Mama & Papa restaurant. As the Owner had been taking a lot of meals there the proprietor gave us several frozen desserts (brownies and cheesecake) to take with us for the voyage.

On the 22nd we moved down south to Ao Chalong where we anchored shortly off the public pier, a massive construction designed to cater for the thousands of tourists wanting to visit various Islands and scenic spots in the area. As Thailand had only recently relaxed their Covid restrictions there was not many around but I could see that it was gearing up with more tourists every day. 

Huge trimaran m/y White Rabbit moored in Yacht Haven
Karst Islands on our way to Ao Chalong
Sunset over Ao Chalong
The Giant Buddha looking over Ao Chalong 

Every morning we could see the dive boats going out to sea and then returning in the evening, coincidentally like clockwork when the sun set a multitude of floaties started populating the water giving a special effect when the underwater lights were on. Needless to say nobody went for a dip whilst at anchor. 

Out for live music
He or she?

As we waited for the deadline of Malaysian Covid sanctions lifting we had only the contractors onboard doing final details that we discovered during tests and using the boat. We also bunkered some refreshments and last minute condiments. Unfortunately a lot of our fresh provisions had started going off as we were  mostly eating ashore during this time. We had not anticipated this lull but had expected to be on our way sooner rather than later. One day we went around to the Mai Thon Island for a day cruise with the contractors and in the evening we did a BBQ for everyone. Fun times to be had.

Sunset over Ao Chalong
The solitary Buddha still perched on his mountain top
Ao Chalong
The Buddha enjoying another sunset
Buddha enlightened after dark

On the 29th I managed to get the insurance for traveling to Malaysia issued so we could enter there without hiccups. The Malaysian Gov't has decreed that all pleasure boats must have 3rd party liability, I guess too many wrecks have been left lying in various decrepit marinas around the peninsula.

Ao Chalong marina
Last glimpse of Thai coast

Finally the 30th approached and I filed the departure crewlist and such for our trip to Langkawi, Malaysia. Having been in touch with the outfit that expedites flag changes I found them most unhelpful and actually got the feeling we were not welcome so I had been in touch with friends in Lumut, a bit more S along the coast and I got a contact with the Lumut marina who had a definite "can do" attitude so I had a discussion with Owner and we decided to give Langkawi a miss, after all in distance we were talking only abt 150' extra. With nearly 7000' ahead of us it is peanuts as well as we needed to get a move on the red tape if we're ever going to make it across.

Sunset over Malacca strait

Malaysian fisherman

Sunrise

Unfortunately our Owner had overstayed his visa on arrival so he had to come personally to see the immigration officer to pay his "naughty fine" and get the dressing down. Finally when that was over we were allowed to depart and so we did. Additionally the wind was not in our favour so we motored, Fanny was keeping well 5-6kts in calm seas. 

Sunrise

The morning of 31st was exciting with waterspouts galore that came pretty close to us but then dispersed.

Waterspouts

Waterspout

Waterspouts

At some point we had a rainbow too

At dawn of 1st of April we gleaned the entrance to Lumut and Pangkor Is.

Sunrise over mainland

Malaysian fishing boats coming to port after a night at sea

As we approached the entrance channel to Lumut marina opposite Pangkor Island we started getting more current against us. The sail in was nice, beautiful scenery especially on Pangkor Island, it looked more like the undisturbed areas of Phuket. 

Alongside in Lumut marina

As we progressed we crossed the channel from Pangkor towards mainland, there is man made reclamation area where the marina is, just S of the naval base (largest in Malaysia). In the pictures the marina looks larger but in real life it is quite tiny. There was one 45m yacht alongside and the rest was in the 20-25m size or smaller. On the land there are large areas for placing boats up on the hard, there are a lot already. Fuel can be ordered and they will deliver you the fuel but tip the boys for the hard work. Water and electricity is also supplied, watch out for the dirty hoses giving off soot stains on white gelcoat. There is coal fired powerplant nearby that will coat your boat in fine dust in few days. 

Fanny in Lumut marina
Locally built motor catamaran

As we settled into the marina we ran off to get us Covid tested and then to the Harbour master and after that Immigration after which we could go to Customs and we were officially arrived in Malaysia. Oh yes, we also had to register on the Gov't tracking app called My Sejahtera. After that my friend Chan took us all out for Chinese lunch which was lovely. Next day I was going to start the flag registration process. 

Next part of the trip: Malaysia to Maldives

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