Saturday, March 03, 2012

Walking in Male'

Saturday night fever and nothing much to do we decided with Dubey to walk around Male' Island, the Capital of Maldives. Said and done we took the ferry over and from the landing we headed straight South. First we passed some park like area with a communal swimming pool connected to the sea and then we came to a beach called Surfers Paradise. I guess this is the only place where the waves break in order surf properly.  I could see some boys on boards far out catching the waves that rolled in. They broke their surf quite far away from shore and I don't wonder why as the shore was not sandy, it was sharp coral edges galore, not for beginners...

Surfers Paradise

Monument to honor the Japanese for sponsoring the Southern Breakwater (?)

Public swimming area on South side

As we strolled on we came on the South side of the Island and the road was lined with stalls selling areca nuts, tender coconut and other refreshments. I saw Red Bull was all the rage with the locals. The walking on the seaside was not bad as the pavement was wide, not like inside the Island where some places there were no sidewalks at all. Then we passed the powerstation of Male', I could hear the engines churning electricity. At same time we passed the southern port where I think the bunker barges fill up or vice versa for the power plant, at least there was a big manifold at the jetty and numerous bunker barges tied up in the port.

One of the older bunker barges


Male' Prison


After this we passed the Male' prison, I guess they nowadays need one as in olden days they had just banished the criminals to outlying Islands. Anyhow, the building was not very big but had those big metal clanging doors that you see in movies. After that we passed a big mountain of rubbish, I would think the highest point of the Island. Nearby was a recycling center. The stink was there despite the sea breeze. Further down the road we came to boat jetties taking passengers to other atolls, people were lining up for departing dhoni's. On the other side I think there was a military building as it was fortified like the jail but there was no sign saying what the building was for. It was bigger than the jail.

Rubbish recycling center


Male' main port


After this we started turning up North and approached the Male' main harbor that was packed with big and small cargo dhoni's loading goods for various destinations. I could see some of the dhoni's were actually owned by the resort. It takes a big operation to keep them going with staffs running in hundreds on the bigger ones. After the port we came almost full circle and passed the main market for fish, fruit vegetable, everything.

Cargo dhoni loaded with two 20' containers and other provisions


Northern entrance to Male' Port


Once the market was behind us we started passing the administrative facade of the Island on the North, the main mosque, President's Palace, major business buildings etc. On the seaside were more ferry jetties dropping off and taking on passengers for various destinations. Soon we were back where we started and had spent 1h 15 minutes walking and we bought our 5 MRF tickets back to Hulhumale'. What an exciting saturday afternoon.

Luxury apartments in male' with a seaview


Main market of Male'

Diving Maldive Victory

As my other deckhand had not experienced the wreck we decided to have another go at it and so we went down south of the airport. This time there was hardly any current so the visibility was much poorer but then again there was much more fish present. Did the same tour as before, down the mast, go fwd, then aft, circle the poop deck, go to the bridge, look into the funnel. As we still got air left we swam at mast height forwards again and back before going up.

BA chart 3323, inset

Hold and masthouse

Masked bannerfish

Bigeyes were hiding everywhere inside the wreck

Sweetlip species (?)

Aft poop deck

Imperial angelfish

Not the way you'd expect your lookout to report for duty...

Gotta keep on rockin'

Forward mooring deck


Friday, March 02, 2012

Diving Maagiri caves

As the previous day we had missed the caves we decided to make another attempt, this time we would start on the Eastern tip of the reef and go along the northern edge in 15m depth to make sure we don't miss it. As soon as we went in I spotted a Napoleon Wrasse but it quickly made itself scarce in face of the intruders. We drifted along the wall and about halfway we hit the jackpot. There was a big cave with sort of a canyon in between from broken off rock. As soon as I entered the cave I saw a white tip shark scuttle away and several big groupers. I managed to corner one at the farthest end in the cave so I could get some decent shots but it was just showing me his tail side, oh well. The caves were magnificent diving and a lot of big groupers and other fish abound.

BA chart 3323, inset

Napoleon Maori Wrasse

Honeycomb moray

Flora

Lionfish

Flora

Honeycomb moray, say "aaah"...

What do you mean "rent"?

Lionfish

Orange-fin emperor

White-tip reef shark

School of fish holding off against the current at the mouth of the cave

Indian parrotfish

White-spotted grouper

Black-spotted pufferfish


Thursday, March 01, 2012

Protest day on Male'

As it was Thursday I wanted to go and buy some essentials before the Muslim day off on Friday and I took the ferry over to Male'. Little did I know they had protests against the government going on the same afternoon. Lot of people were out and about and the powers that be had cordoned off the "sensitive" areas of the Capital with road blocks and Police was equipped with riot shields and protective gear.

Maldivian "gas carrier" at Hulhumale'

Protesters and Riot Police

Well, I did not let a few people deter me from doing my business so I set to walk around the demonstrators and Police in order to get to the shop I wanted to go to. At the local University was even more people and a female voice coming out of speakers that sounded very angry and I guess was shouting out demands for what their party were protesting against.

Protest at the University

The Prez was not having an open door day

After a while I think she ran out of demands or points and she reverted to the slogan that sounded something like "Male'allavaduhii", I have no idea of the meaning. People everywhere were taking things pretty calmly and just standing around watching things develop. After some time I could see people went away and the Police stood down and started dismantling road blocks, I guess the protest was over. Shops opened and I was able to do my stuff. Once finished I walked back towards the boat jetty and while I was passing the post office close by I could still hear the female shouting at the University, I guess her protest day was not yet over...

Traditional dhoni at Hulhumale'

Diving Maagiri caves

This time we decided to go to the right spot and so we went with map and all. Went into the water about in the middle of the north side of the reef and hit one cave, after that there a few small holes and the rest was just wall dive. When going in there was a about 1kt of inflowing current so we drifted along until we came to the West point of the reef where the current was not felt. Saw nothing much in between the cave and the end. Once we started ascending we spotted a small manta ray and a Napoleon wrasse.

BA chart 3323, inset

Dubey in cave

Titan triggerfish

Maldives & Clark's anemonefish

Orangefin emperor

Longnose butterflyfish

Regal angelfish

Black-saddle coralgrouper

Small Manta ray

Napoleon Wrasse with Jackfish

Napoleon Wrasse

Napoleon Wrasse