I had been sitting at home or been doing errands when we then decided to go and see some waterfalls in Trang province for a change.
N. Toen N. Min
Said and done we packed kids and family members in the pickup and off we went towards Nam Tok Ton Tae and Ton Tok (Nam Tok = waterfall). The drive was not too long and roads were in good condition despite the rainy season, we also had good luck and avoided all showers too.
Fallen forest giant
At Nam Tok Ton Tae was a big parking lot and the entrance to the nature reserve. Surprisingly they did not charge anything for entry, even for a foreigner like me. The waterfall was quite slow and low as well. Excellent place for kids to play around. I saw a sign pointing for a nature trail and I started following it in tow with N.Fon, N. Toen and N. Min. After awhile I realized the trail was not there and we were walking in a rubber plantation or the locals had encroached on the nature reserve.
N. Fon, Toen & Min
Eventually we came to forested area that was not rubber trees and saw some really big ones still standing a also fallen down. The terrain got really steep so we then headed back as I did not want the kids get hurt, never mind myself. I always manage to get myself in odd places. After some time we were near the waterfall and emerged from the jungle a bit above it.
Hypno toad
After the hot & humid trek it was nice to take a dip in the cool water and just relax. I even spotted a huge toad that according to N. Thuen was edible. We left him there to enjoy his existence.
Local Dugong, N. Thuen
Once people had had enough of water games we packed ourselves in the truck and went for Nam Tok Ton Tok. It was barely half an hour away and during the drive we could see Ton Tae upper region that was falling straight down the mountain cliff.
Entrance to Ton Tok
The Ton Tok waterfall really looked like a waterfall but even here the water was low. Still there was an ample amount coming down the mountain side in a 5m fall. It was so strong that even I was not that stupid to go and try it out. We did not linger long as the kids could not play in this waterfall so we left for home.
Ton Tok waterfall
Ton Tae from a distance
On the way we stopped in Palian to get some beers and then in Trang and bought me a dry shirt and then we had dinner at Huai Yod. Wonderful seafood accompanied with Karaoke singing from other customers...
I had been invited to meet my friend Atul Gaikwad that lives close to Mumbai (at least when you look at the map) and this Saturday I decided to go on a short excursion. I bought a "Volvo" class ticket for 250 Rs on Friday.
Then on Saturday 4 pm I went to the rendezvous point. There I was crammed into a local black and yellow Premier taxi and off we drove. The escort was a nervous young guy chewing paan or gutka and talking into to two mobile phones simultaneously. It did not take long and we arrived to the bus. It was a big Volvo. I was escorted to my seat and soon the bus left, surprisingly on time too.
It seemed to me that we trawled every street from point of departure to New Mumbai in search for passengers and cargo. Sometimes we would stop and load parcels, sometimes people. The driver apparently had only 2 positions of the aircon, it was either "off" or "on". The bus was frigid, I was tightly wrapped in my fleece blanket that was provided with every seat. At one stage the bus got quite full and I lost my privacy when an Indian sat beside me. I did not mind that at all but unfortunately my seat fellow was in a dire need of a shower or his Rexona had given up on him - badly. I was sniffing on my Thai "yaa dom" (made of camphor, eucalyptus etc) to cover the smell. I got lucky as he changed seats after awhile or a seat was vacated.
When we entered New Mumbai and started to get to the outskirts of the city we encountered huge zhopad patti's (slum dwellings). People were living like ants, the hovels extended far away into the smog that is lingering everywhere this time of year. Soon enough we crossed the river and entered the Expressway which was in excellent condition. We soon made good speed and the bus rolled past lumbering trucks. After some time we started climbing hills, it was already dark but I could see the view was nice with all lights from the city below the mountain. After the mountains we gradually came to Pune.
I was dropped off at the railway station at 9.30PM, an hour after schedule. soon enough Atul picked me up in his car. We had a local specialty as I was famished that looked like a Greek chicken kebab but was definitely better. After this we picked up a few Kingfishers and headed for Atul's pad. There we ordered some home delivery and we had a very nice veggie dinner and chatted for awhile before it was time to call it a night.
Next morning I woke up to the sunshine and Atul prepared a Maharastrian breakfast "Pooha", made of rice flakes and whatnot. It was very filling and delicious. I had thought of going to visit the Rajneesh Osho resort but it turned out it was a bit more difficult than anticipated. More info here
Osho was a controversial person who founded his own cult and did away with gurus and taught his own dogma. He was thrown out from the US for various reasons and finally ended back in Pune where he had started his mission. He has been compared to Buddha and still today his legacy lives on. More info here
Considering all options we finally headed for the Rajiv Gandhi Zoo that housed an extensive snake collection.
I entered after paying 25 Rs for entry (10 Rs for locals) and walked for the tour. There was quite a few other animals as well. Snakes are generally a boring subject to watch as they do nothing, them normally being nocturnal in their activities. In the video you can see one snake that was definitely giving value for money and was snaking around his pit.
We also saw various species of crocs, porcupines, sloth bear, various deer, iguanas, turtles, terrapins, tigers and incredibly fat leopards. As it was Sunday and it was India, people kept pouring into the Zoo and we soon found our way out of it. After that we picked up Atul's wife Snehal and went out for lunch. We drove through Pune and circled close to Osho and I could see foreigners traipsing around in red robes that they have to wear inside the resort.
Finally, we decide to have lunch in a Punjabi restaurant and we had a vegetarian fare. Dhal, rice, roti and Paneer in gravy. I have hard time remembering what dishes are called in India. All was very delicious and filling and we headed for the bus station where I got a ticket for 235 Rs to Mumbai. I thanked Atul and his wife for their hospitality and boarded the bus.
This bus filled up 100% and I got a huge fellow sitting beside me, he was big as a barndoor and round as a hippopotamus, me myself not being a small guy either felt very small beside him. I was crammed between him and the window most of the trip as he disembarked at the outskirts of Mumbai. The beginning of the trip was interesting as I had not seen the countryside in daylight.
We passed many places where they made bricks and of course farmhouses. Bricks were piled in big piles, then covered with what I presume was straw and mud. After that a fire was built inside these piles to get the bricks burned. I can only imagine how long this operation is taking, weeks I guess. I've seen similar brick ovens in Vietnam and there they had a slow fire burning from rice husks. The land looked very brown and dry as the rains had stopped some months ago.
Eventually I arrived Dadar after 3hrs journey and from there I took a taxi to Yellow Gate and came onboard, too tired to eat dinner and just collapsed into bed. Short trip and not so eventful, but at least I have an excuse to go back.
Port Blair was a failed attempt to establish a settlement in 1789 and was largely forgotten until 1858 when a penal colony for convicts was established by the British Indian government.
The cellular jail
Reason for this was because the 1st Indian Independence War was fought in 1857 and the English needed a place where to dump the freedom fighters. In the beginning convicts were just left onto the main Island (Port Blair) while the Englishmen stayed on Ross Island away from the con's.
However one of the convicts, Sher Ali Khan, managed to kill Lord Mayo during an inspection of Port Blair.
As a result of the killing the cellular jail was ordered to be built in 1893.
A massive complex with seven wings in a star shape was built facing Phoenix Bay. I wonder what always makes people in power to build jails on the best spot. The view is stunning from the hillock where it is built.
In this prison was housed only political prisoners that were used and abused by their British tormentors. I'm sure this incident would be preferred to be forgotten as it is an ugly depiction that is today displayed for tourists at the Sound and Light show at the cellular jail.
Today only 3 wings remain of the jail as other parts have been taken in use as a hospital and other parts has been demolished. However, this monument serves as another memory of mans brutality against fellow man.
This prison could be compared to the Cambodian Tuol Sleng and Killing Fields as well as German concentration camps in it's reminder of cruelty inflicted on men just because they wanted to be independent.
English language shows are daily at 1730hrs and tickets cost 20 INR for adults. The show is very patriotic and kind of long winding, but audio and light is working properly and is done slightly theatrically.
I arrived in the evening on 31st April by train and minivan from Bangkok to sign on m/y Kalizma, the van left me at the Yacht Haven Marina junction and a final motorbike ride took me to the Marina.
M/y Kalizma in Yacht Haven
Once at the Marina I was met by the Chef Richard and we trollied my luggage onboard. Onboard Richard treated me to a small evening snack and a few absolutely delicious cans of ice cold Kingfisher beer.
The next day I woke up to a sunny day and met Captain Avnish and the crew. After that we started the handover which went on for quite a few days. Accounting, budgeting, maintenance, bridge equipment, class/ certificate status and the whole shebang, the list went on and on.
Finally towards the end of handing over we received onboard the Company representative, Cmde Mongia, to endorse the handover and review of accounts. We did a short 3 day cruise in order to see all equipment in operation. First night was spent at anchor in Ao Tha Lua and we took our tender to Boat Lagoon for dinner. Boat Lagoon was almost bone dry due to extreme low tide and we barely managed to navigate the channel, but eventually we made it slowly, very slowly.
Next day we cruised towards Phang Nga Bay where we went exploring with the tenderboat and jetski. For the night we stayed overnight at Berama Bay where a new marina is being built, in fact the whole Island is being restructured on a massive scale. At sundown we had the Island developers onboard for snacks and drinks but we were interrupted by very heavy rain showers and had to retreat into the saloon.
Next morning was again sunny and closer to noon we hoisted anchor and started towards the Yacht Haven Marina, the approach was uneventful and then we came to the exciting part where I had to maneuver Kalizma alongside. I had slight wind from the port bow and the current from astern. I made port side alongside and without any mishaps. It was not that easy but by time I’m sure I will get to know her tricks and treats.
Having crossed off all items in the handover list we did the final item which was to sign the boat officially to me. This was done in the morning of 8th May on the aft deck in the presence of Cmde Mongia. After all signing was done I could see that Capt Avnish looked very relieved after the burden of responsibility had been lifted from his shoulders. Kalizma is now under my command and I hope it will be a long and happy relationship with the Owner’s, distinguished guests and crew.
