Cannes - Valencia

On the 4th June morning we heave up anchor and depart Cannes for Valencia. Weather is fine for a change and it is nice to get to the open seas for a change from ports and marinas, albeit a short time.

Islas Columbretes

5th June in the morning we pass the Islas Columbretes in the distance. Me as a keen diver can't resist the thought of thinking how the diving is there. It is indicated on the chart that the area is designated a nature reserve with no anchoring allowed. Sounds promising. 

Canal to Americas Cup basin

In the afternoon we arrive Valencia, take pilot and proceed alongside. There is a tricky "S" bend just straight after the wavebreaker but we manage well. After that it is to go along a narrow canal to the "Americas cup" basin where we make alongside on the South side.

Americas Cup Basin

After that agents starts boarding, local officials etc. The usual circus and another voyage is completed. I start planning maintenance jobs for the boys for the next event, the F1 in a few weeks time.

The commercial port is just next to Americas Cup

Monaco - Cannes

I arrived Nice airport a bit after midnight on 30th May, it was about 4 years since I was in Mediterranean the last time. Nothing had seemingly changed, nobody was out to meet me so I took a taxi and gave instructions to drive to Monaco. The views would have been breathtaking had it been daylight when I was passing the mountains but in the middle of the night I just saw navigation lights at sea and streetlights on land.

Monaco

We arrived Monaco at about 2am and spent well over 30minutes finding Indian Empress but finally I recognized her "dwarfed" between other mega yachts on the "T" jetty. The F1 party is winding up everywhere, cleaning crews abound everywhere. I clamber onboard and meet Capt Bruno, then I find Chef Anil slaving away in the galley. I get some late dinner and swap the latest news and walk back aft to get some rest.

Greek yacht at the South jetty

I get up later at noon to start taking over my duties, I have only a written note to go on as Tsetso had already left the ship. In the evening we are ordered by the marina to proceed to anchorage as they need the space to move away the "Red Bull" pontoon. Anchor watches resume.

Miserable rain over Monaco

On 31st we get permission to berth at the South Jetty. We take pilot and moor alongside Atlantis II (Niarchos). We let go the starboard anchor and fasten bottom line on starboard side. Four lines are made fast astern.

M/v Independendence of the Seas

We stay the 1st alongside as windy weather persist over the French riviera.

m/y Zippo

Captain Zippo

On the 2nd we depart Monaco early morning, the wind has dissipated but it is still raining. The weather is miserable for yachting. We anchor a few hours later in front of Cannes, just North of Ile St. Marguerite. I spot the cruise ship Independence of the Seas anchored in the bay a bit further away or rather "Monster of the Seas" as she is so large. 

Ile St. Marguerite

Ile St. Marguerite by night

I also meet the famous "Captain Zippo" Mr. Ashok Prabhakaran who has been working for us several years.

Shiju & Jyoti

3rd of June I meet with Jyoti that is now working as a villa housekeeper on Ile St. Marguerite. She is now happily married and seems to enjoy her time in France. I doubt she misses Kalizma.

Classic yachts in front of Antibes 

Classic yachts in front of Antibes

m/y Lamu

m/y Alfa Nero

Yachts sitting in Cannes marina

Classic yachts in front of Antibes

M/y Fathom survey

I was asked to have a look at m/y Fathom in case interest would arise in purchasing her. Onboard I was welcomed by Captain Oscar Wollstein who showed me around every nook and cranny that was possible to see when afloat. She is a very interesting small yacht.

M/y Fathom

M/Y FATHOM

TECHNICAL PARTICULARS:
- Year of built: 2007, Turkey, steelhull (faired);
- Flag & registration: Malta, commercial yacht, max 12 persons;
- LOA, Beam, draft: 45m/ 8.4m / 3m;
- ME’s & DG’s: 2 x 800 hp (MAN) / 2 x 80kW (Kohler);
- Range: 3000’+ (trans-Atlantic), (fuel cons w/ generator: 170 ltr/ h);
- Cruising speed: 10kts;
- RO plant capacity: 5t/ day;
- Also equipped with sewage treatment plant, Hi-fog sprinklers & Quantum zero speed stabilizers;

ACCOMMODATION:
- There are 3 staterooms on lower deck and a Master cabin on main deck, this will be complicated if the boat charters for 12 guests as there are only 8 beds;
- One of the lower deck cabins are a bit noisy due to AV cupboard in there;
- The state rooms and Master cabin are quite spacious but the ensuites a bit smallish and difficult to enter due to door arrangements;
- On main deck is a large “formal” saloon with sitting and dining area (entry to lower deck state rooms). On sb side is a small office and dayhead (w/ shower), on port the pantry and galley with Master suite extreme fwd;
- On upper deck is a more “casual” looking TV lounge with navigation bridge and Captains cabin extreme fwd;
- The crew accommodation caters for Captain (single cabin), Engineer (single cabin), Mate, Bosun, Deckhand, Chef, Ch. Stewardess, 1st Stewardess, 2ndStewardess (total 9);
- The crew mess is small for 9 persons but the cabins are of comfortable size;

TECHNICAL ISSUES:
- The stern was modified after delivery as it was constantly awash from passing boats, now the height is abt 1’ and dry, also the heightened aft houses the engine spares now;
- The equipment onboard is generally of very good quality, the crew have spent a lot of effort to iron out the kinks of the Turkish workmanship and now at the age of 5yrs she seems to be quite “run in”;
- Main engines have run abt 2000+ hrs (which is not much);
- The ER looked very clean and maintained (Russian Engineer);
- As working point of view there is pending following items;
o Hot water heaters needs to be changed into s/s as the current onesleaks rust into the lines;
o All pipe bulkhead penetrations are still of mild steel but otherwisemost piping has been changed into PVC, (the penetrations could prove problematic at a later stage);
o Boat has Crestron controllers for the AV systems (very hard to service in India);
o Bridge equipment all in good condition, major brand is Furuno;
o Dive compressor and gear onboard but has been mainly used for ship maintenance only;
o Acc. To Captain the stabilisers are working well at sea but in port I could see she rolled a bit;
o Because of the gym on top she has about 22tons of fixed ballast in her keel, this is not a problem, it just points out that there has been a stability issue;
o The hull has not been painted in some time and she is scheduled to have new A/F done;
o She don’t have satellite broadband, comm’s via mini-M or local wi-fi;
o The 2nd smaller tender (Novurania) seemed to have a leak on the tube;
o There is no dedicated large space for bonded stores and beverages;

OUTER DECKS:
- She has a rather small aft deck on main deck with a small round table for 6 persons. Also entry to a large “formal” indoor lounge;
- Upper deck has a movable big dining table and outdoor bar adjoining another indoor lounge (the tender is stored on this deck and fills it up almost completely);
- Sun deck is excellent for sunbathing and the gym in between is adequate, the Jacuzzi is located here;
- The gym can be stowed completely for events like, e.g. parties;
- Fwd deck stores the second smaller tender and 2 jetski’s. This area is not very likely to be frequented by guests. The Captain said she seldom takes much water on deck in bad seas, I would concur to this seeing her high bow testifying to her seaworthiness;
- Generally all teak decks looked to be in good condition;

 

High bow of m/y Fathom

CRUISING IN INDIA:
- Technically I don’t envisage too much trouble maintaining her in Indian waters;
- As her cruising speed is only 10 kts, she is like Kalizma, not a very fast boat to get around long distances;
- Her zero speed stabilizers makes an asset in Indian waters with the more or less ever present swell;
- Her small ME size makes her fuel wise quite economical, but in bad weather she will lose speed;
- The galley can be provisioned comfortably for 7-10 days but requires access to fresh produce;
- Both tenders and jetski’s runs on petrol;
- In general I would say she is a quite well setup and compact yacht working wise but the 4 guest cabins sets a limit of 8 persons for cruising overnight.

Deck plan of m/y Fathom

Mumbai blues

I arrived well on the 19th from Maldives and next few days are spent writing reports and price estimates for the proposed project in case it takes off. The funny thing happening is now that Mumbai Port Trust or the immigration (according to agent) is not issuing me a dock pass. I can sign on the yacht but not go ashore (unless e.g. visiting a Doctor). The other option I suggested then was to designate me as the ship superintendent and I got a pass but I could not stay overnight, I am told by the agent to stay at a hotel. Catch 22 situation...

Victoria Docks being filled up, a historical landmark soon gone

Old sheds being demolished at Victoria Docks

Further had to run to FRRO offices to apply for visa extension and here another problem arises in the form of paid taxes. As I receive my salary abroad to an offshore account I don't pay any taxes in India and explaining this to the bureaucrats was like explaining quantum mechanics to a slum dweller. Well, the 20th I stayed onboard overnight and nobody's alarm bells rang.

Basin being land filled at Victoria Docks

Old pilot boat

An era gone by

On the 21st the agent asks me 20.000 rupees for the visa extension, on the 23rd & 24th I still run in the FRRO office and the Tax office re: the tax issue. Our agent is proving to be useful like a donkey with tits. At least I get some real work done too as all UB boats are sent upstream to Belapur for the monsoon and I crash at Thomas place as we finish very late in the evening.

M/y Linse on the way to Belapur

Gateway of India, side view

25th is the final time I visit the FRRO office, they grant me a 3mths extension that can be extended another 9mths provided I get them the tax paper. Needless to say this is not going to happen and other things are brewing so I take it in my stride. No point in arguing with a desk person.

Mumbai architecture

Mumbai architecture

26th I'm dealing with paperwork and in the evening I go to the Comedy Club at Phoenix Mills to watch some standup comedy with Anahita Marker, quite entertaining in the end. Afterwards we have a veg dinner at the Punjab Grill and I'm totally stuffed.

Mumbai architecture

Victoria train station

27th I prepare my final handover notes and am invited to a farewell dinner at Aashim's pad. On the 28th I start my handover and on the 29th I'm flying again, this time to Europe. I arrive at 2am Nice, France on the 30th May and take a taxi to Monaco to sign on Indian Empress. I arrive just in time to see all the festivities winding down and get my bags onboard and crash to start next morning as Chief Officer.

Male'

Next morning 17th I wake up and start phoning Mr. Shafeeq for finding out contacts on the Island. He appoints me one of his clerks to take me around, not a big job actually but better to go with one that has the local knowledge already instead of re-inventing the wheel.

Residential Is

Dolphins

Thilafushi Is.

So, I was picked up by Mr. Arish on his trusty Honda Dream and after a small discussion of what I wanted to see we started our round. I ended up visitin gon Maleä the Yamaha showroom, the Suzuki showroom, Northern Lights rep. and then the Furuno shop. After this we took the ferry over to the Thilafushi Island (unofficially called the Garbage Island as all waste is processed there (read: burned)) but it also houses all the heavy industry and services one could need on an Island. On the way I could see more underwater reef was being claimed for Thilafushi and Arish explained to me that all the godown's on Male' Island are being relocated in way of residential requirements.

Shiplift

Wooden dhoni

Once we arrived we went to see the Gulfcraft yard and met with their rep. and discussed a possible overhaul. Usually yards give slots out but here they told me that tell us when you want to come and we'll see...(!?). Well, I could see they were pretty full as they are the biggest yard with the largest lifting capacity and the season was coming to an end so there was a lot of boats queuing up for service. Our next stop was at UEL, they did not have the capacity to lift the yacht but they had a good refit jetty. The foreman was a paan chewing chap in his 50's and we spent half an hour chatting with him via Arish translation as well as sampling his paan. I learned that he was originally from Indonesia but had somehow stranded on Maldives in his early age. After this it was late lunch time and Arish took me to an eatery for the workers on Thilafushi, the facility was clean and airy and the food was really good, it came as a real surprise.

The UEL foreman & me

Modern glassfibre dhoni

On the 18th I meet with the underwriters, Mr. Deeptha from Ceylinco and discuss the premium of the yacht and chat with him for a good hour. The quote is fairly high for a yacht this size and Mr. Deeptha explains me that the claims in Maldives are massive on an annual basis, no underwriter will give any cheaper price. I have my doubts but I can well understand their point of view and I also believe there is a good number of accidents as well.

People waiting for the ferry

Rubbish trucks coming from Male'

In the afternoon I was supposed to see the dive dhoni but it is allegedly still at the other resort with steering gear problems (how convenient). At this point I have all my points on the list crossed out so I book my flight for the next day to depart for India. I also happened to get in touch with an old acquaintance, Ms Victoria Hilley who is working on a nearby resort as Marketing Manager. She invites me for dinner and get instructions of how to come to the Island by their ferry. I arrive at the staff jetty and am fairly soon picked up Victoria and we head for the Japanese restaurant on the resort. The setting is very nice as always is in Maldives and we order dinner accompanied with one bottle of sake. During the course of dinner we catch up on things that has happened since we last met in Langkawi in 2008. Soon she notices that the last ferry to Male' is about to leave so we hurry to the jetty and I say my goodbye until next time, time runs fast in good company.

Male'

Time travel available in Maldives

19th I wake up 8am for breakfast and prepare myself for taking the flight to Bangalore and onwards to Mumbai. All goes well and I arrive Mumbai at 7pm and get to spend the night in Elphinstone Hotel as I don't have a gate pass to board Kalizma now at the M-wall.

In Maldives

Next morning I wake up at 6am to the sound of rain and I looked out it was raining as well as sun was shining. Luckily the rain shower passes quickly and I grab my goggles and snorkel and go for swim. The reef is pretty shallow to start with but I float carefully over all the razor sharp corals like a crocodile and finally reach the edge of the reef. There I start snorkeling along the edge watching the scenery below me. I swim slowly to the dredged marina, past it and around the Island to the other side and get out of the water at the shallow natural lagoon.

The open air bathroom

Swimming pool

From there I walk to the welcoming jetty and walk over to the dredged Islet. It is hard walking as the sharp coral bits try to penetrate my soles. A bit like walking on glass. I discover the Islet is more used as a garbage handling facility, there are several traces of burnt rubbish all over the water line. I think not very much in line according to rule of law but as the outfit is Maldivian maybe different rules apply.

Welcome jetty and walkway

Another view

I walk back to my cabana to have a shower and get ready for breakfast and the work we were supposed to do. The bathroom is an open area enclosed by 4 walls, pretty ingenious idea. At breakfast I get a masala omelet and enjoy it in the company of Cmde Mongia and after finishing our chai we walk off to find the Maldivian Captain.

Maldivian Captain & Cmde Mongia

The Island

Once we get hold of him we sit down and have a chat about the boats and we find out that the dive dhoni is not the one designated to the Island, it has been brought here from another resort as the other dhoni was only a year old. By the looks of the one now in the marina it is ready to sink anytime. Equally we were told that the speed boat is also old and in dire need of overhaul as well as the OBM's. Then when we come to the issue of the yacht that is connected tot he Island, it is 12year old Gulfcraft 86 Majesty bought secondhand. Last drydocking was 3 years ago and as the story goes on I see my to-do list grow mile long.

Corals 

After this we ask the Captain to give us a seatrial so we could see the performance of the boat and how it is running.The Captain takes us onboard and the first thing I notice is the teak decks that have been oiled over and the peeling paint work, obviously yachting is not the forte over here. When we inspect the interior it all looks nice but almost nothing is working, aircon, sewage system, AV system, fresh water system etc. etc.

Frangipani

View from observation terrace

After this move onto propulsion/ electrical supply and we discover many gauges out of order. The gensets do not have any working gauges nor any safeties and the chug along sounding very tired. Finally we start the main engines and go for a spin. The engines run alright but when we come to higher revs it sounds like one engine is either over speeding or the clutch is slipping. We moor the boat back to the buoy and go back ashore our work done. I easily see a 300k USD overhaul looming at the horizon if we will take charge.

Residential Island Viligili next to Male'

Sunset over Male'

The afternoon goes on until late and we get ready to leave. We are greeted by our hosts and packed in the seaplane and soon enough we are flying towards Male'. Once in Male' I am ordered to stay back to find out what the repair facilities are in Male' as well as quotes for the possible work ahead. Mr. Shafeeq books me into the Mookai hotel and I settle in for the night as it is already late. I laugh to myself at the hotel name as directly translated to Thai it means Pork-Chicken, I reckon no self respecting muslim would want that in his hotel name...