Saturday, September 25, 2010

Elephanta Island

On the 24th the Bosun of m/y Ashena, Mohsin, asked if I would like to visit the Island and I thanked yes as I had not gone there yet (as it often happens in many places, you stay a long time but you never see the sights thinking "Oh, I still got plenty of time to do that).

The train from jetty to shore

Souvenirs, anyone?


The 1st cave

Mohsin has his own ferry boat to bring people from Gateway to Elephanta so I got special treatment as he knew everyone there but I still had to pay admission. Anyway, it went for a good cause as long as the money is used to maintain the Museum site on the Island and not fatten some Official's pocket.

Inside

As the shores are very shallow the jetty naturally is very long until it reaches acceptable depths for the ferries. There is a mini-train that can carry passengers all way to the shore. Nice touch but probably the lack of maintenance of the engine had the train leaking oil at the end stations which showed as a large black stain.

Carvings

We walked the whole jetty to shore and then there was a shallow staircase leading up to the caves. The staircase was lined with souvenir shops selling knick knacks for every taste. Closer to the top there was even a few restaurants and guest houses. The Island does not have electricity so the rooms are without A/C or fan.

Big Lingam in the background

After this we reached the entrance gate where I shelled out the 500 Rs foreigner fee. We walked forward and soon enough arrived to the first cave. It was carved straight into the mountain as were all the caves there, probably from existing caves that were shaped out to rooms, pillars, etc.

..another cave..

The path went from west onto the east side of the Island where I could see the JNPT container terminal on the main land and the Elephanta Island three villages and the fresh water dam supplying them. The path was lined with monkeys looking for food, some people bought bananas to give to them.

...and another...

The Island water reservoir

Unfortunately when I had reached the east side we had to turn back and walk back the same way as there was no path around (at least not officially). Once we arrived back to the entrance we exited and followed signs to the "Old cannon" which was a longer climb up on the top of the Island. There are 2 old cannons perched on the top of the Island during the English era. The cannon's with their muzzles turned down and locks removed most likely due to possible terror attacks.

The Cannon

Mohsin & Cannon


Mohsin told me that there was supposedly a tunnel connecting the two cannons but I did not feel tempted to go explore old military catacombs. We soon turned back and headed back down. In between we stopped at a drink vendor to enjoy a refreshing lemon soda. After finishing the soda we ventured down to the shore and got our tender back. Quite enjoyable afternoon.

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Ganesh Chaturthi ending

Was getting a bit tired of hearing all the "Ganpati Bappa Mouriya" shouting and experiencing all the traffic jams caused by the big Ganpati's erected on roads, but today was the last day of the festival when the Ganesh idol was taken from the house or the shrine and immersed in water.

Ganesh idol in a makeshift shrine

When I first heard of this I thought the Maharashtra coast must be littered by thousands of Ganesh idols but then I learned that these idols dissolve in water. There is also strict rules of using nature friendly materials and paints when making the idols.

A family preparing the idol

As all were quite busy onboard, I took alone a few hours off in the afternoon and went with our driver nearby Seawoods Darave to a water tank to see how the immersion ritual was taking place. As I have seen with all hindu rituals it is a complex process with a lot of chanting, clapping, cymbals, flowers and incense burning, but then again, if I'd been born a hindu I would probably think all of it as part of life.

Ganesh Chaturthi processions

Soon enough when I had seen the ritual I headed back to the ship as people were starting to come out with all their Ganesh idols and downtown Mumbai was totally congested, better to stay onboard and watch the festivities on the news channel.

Sunday, September 12, 2010

Ganesh Chaturthi

Ganesh temple at Mira road

On 11th was the start of Ganesh Chaturthi festival and I had been invited together with Saini to go to a Ganesh Mandir on Mira road where one of our contractors was launching her music VCD.

The artists and production team

As Mira road is across town we left early with Saini at the wheel and me as pilot. My GPS app in my phone is proving quite useful at times like this when our driver had decided to take a day off on his own. I saw the oddest things on the highway - stranded trucks in the middle of the road that had not been hauled aside nor was there any warning triangles or anything indicating of this hazard. At one place was a truck in the middle of the road and astern of it was a small Suzuki half way crammed under the bumper. Maybe some driver had not realized the truck is stationary and just gone full throttle smack into it, some shock it must've been (to the driver).

Mr. Kumar and Ms. Vinaya

We arrived on time and there was some other party just wrapping up their pooja. We stood around and looked at people milling around while also meeting Ms. Vinaya and her husband Mr. Moses Kumar. They introduced us to their Producer, Composer, Lyricist, Music Director, Video Director and who else, all the names blurred up in my mind.

The mechanical pooja drummer

Finally it was time for the pooja and music started playing and chanting went on. Me and Saini sat outside watching the proceedings and as the came to a finish there was a lot of photo taking with the music VCD that was being published with all the involved people in it. Even we had to pose for it a couple of times.

London Pilsner

After this it was time to eat and we had a light lunch blessed by the monk. Having fed and done our appearance, we thanked our hosts we made our way to the car and left back for Belapur. On the way I saw an ad for London Pilsner and we stopped in Belapur bottle shop to get a few, it is a nice brew, also by UB Group.



Friday, September 03, 2010

Krishna Janmashtami

As I was out on errands and the end of the day was coming I kept seeing the Dahi Handi's (claypot filled with milkcurd) being rigged over streets, over parking lots and any large open area any sponsor had managed to come over. It was the day of Lord Krishna's birthday and this festival was called Krishna Janmasthami.

Pyramid starting and handi rigged up in the air

The celebration is done by making human pyramids to reach up tot he handi and break it. The people doing the pyramids are called Govinda's. They travel around the city trying to break as many handi's they can as some of them present large cash gifts (given by political parties or wealthy societies).

It was late afternoon and I decided to stay onshore this evening as the breaking of the pots were going to take place then. You could see the Govinda's everywhere on trucks and at the festival sites gearing up for the evening trial. And so I went with Saini to Kharghar and had some chai while waiting for his family to get ready to go outside.


Govindas in Khargar, Navi Mumbai

We could not get a tuk-tuk as all people were going somewhere for the festival so we resorted to walking. When we finally arrived there we learned that the handi was going to be broken later at about 10-11pm. It was too late for Saini's daughters so we walked to the other end of the township to a newly opened Krishna temple to make merit and afterwards we ate prasad. After this it was again back to walking and we arrived to Saini's flat 9pm. Then we watched the rest of the evening Govinda's performing at the more popular sites and I saw a world record being made of a human pyramid of 9 layers high.

Next day I could read from news papers that Mumbaikars had celebrated Janmashtami with great fervour, but not all Govinda's were so lucky. There hadn't been any fatalities but at least 18 are lying in hospital for critical injuries.





Wednesday, September 01, 2010

Captain's blog August 2010

So August has gone by and we have seen more rain that we would ever prefer. It has been raining hard, poured down with water, torrential rains, drizzled, rained moderately, rained vertically, horizontally and intermittently. Any description of rain that you may have, we have seen.

Sunset over Mumbai

Pouring rain at Cuffe Parade

The rain has not done any good to Kalizma, the decks are turning green from mold and when we don't have rains we wash the decks in order to remove the mold. Another scourge we have is wood rot from the rain, I have now had Carpenters onboard changing rotten wood on railings and other places where it is necessary.

Architecture on P. D'Mello road


Perhaps Poseidon?

For a week we had really good weather, the sea was calm as mirror and we got only a few showers now and then. Little did we know it was the prelude to a 3 day water fest that led into the Pakistani floods and in Mumbai it amounted to 550mm (in Finland it rains abt 600mm/ year). The dams are overflowing and farmers are happy. At same time on the eastern side of the country in Bihar they are suffering from drought. What can I say? India is really big.

m/y Linse at Reti Bunder

Rajaram's & Sunil's birthday party

Our tenders have each done abt 600nm in tendering since we arrived at our current anchorage, so they are also starting to show signs of fatigue and requires service. Contractors are crawling all over the ship now as we're gearing up for the upcoming highseason. Repairing lacquer works and renewing carpets inside, engine and A/C maintenance, valve overhauls and exterior carpentry, on bridge radio and safety maintenance.

Licorice from UK that kept my tummy working just fine...

Richard has returned from his annual vacation and is resuming his duties as Chef and also Chief Steward. Rajaram is back too. Sunil went to UK for his Y3 orals and onwards to France to learn how to maintain a cigarette boat. He was so kind as to bring me a box of licorice to satisfy my craving. Finally, Kalpana is studying for her Hotel Management course with big backup in the evenings from the crew helping her out in her projects. On the 14th we celebrated the combined birthday for Rajaram & Sunil.

Fishing boat being refitted at Mandwa

In addition all the other boats are eating up our time and we're busy running after quotes all over town and planning overhauls. M/y Linse is getting a total recall with engine overhaul, hull paint work and interior refit. About time for the 30yr old Italian lady. Other boats we're sanding and doing up for the season, new A/F on all hulls. Some glassfibre works and engine overhauls. It would be easy unless the Indian contractors would not always promise more than they can chew. It is constantly coming up, promises are broken, specs are altered, phones are not picked up - very frustrating. Anyway, despite it all we plod on, day by day.

Oil pollution from MSC Chitra

It also did us no good to witness the pollution resulting from the collision of Khalijia III and MSC Chitra. Our waterline was black from heavy fuel oil and our tenders too. Even weeks afterwards we can still see a container stranded in the Belapur mangroves and also at times cookies floating by in the sea from their cargo.

Women dancing at the beach

Men wrestling

Went to Mandwa with Avnish to check out some future potential yacht storage places, very promising ventures in the air but this will be actual only next year after the season. Same time I had the pleasure of witnessing the fishermen opening the fishing season. Women were dancing on the beach while men were wrestling (Naryal Purnima).

Joel Alvarez & daughter

On the 28th I was invitd by Avnish to come to Jazz by the Bay and listen to some live music and for his farewell party as he was leaving for Indian Empress. The music was fantastic and the singer looked like our Boss as well as his daughter had an amazing singing voice.


Well, busy as a bee and the show goes on, need to get cracking so the boats will get ready for the high season...










Thursday, August 26, 2010

Marinas in Mumbai

On 25th Aug I came across this article in Mumbai Mirror where they envisioned new Marinas in several areas near Mumbai, such as Gateway, Mandwa, Girgaum chowpatti, Worli seaface, Revas, Mandwa, Alibag, Elephanta and Belapur in 2-3 years. It is about time. They say only the investor is missing.

Fishermen cooped up for monsoon in Mandwa

Meanwhile the media has totally forgotten that there is the perfect spot called Prince's dock that is being filled up soon to make way for the Mumbai Port trusts "planned" container terminal. At same time a part of Mumbai's heritage will be lost to the future generations forever and people will be able only to read about it in the history books. Perhaps that is what is called progress or evolution.

Boats being stored at Belapur

For example how many does remember the Bombay Explosion? That time it took 7 months to restore the docks into working condition, now they are willingly filling it up to make way for an absurd plan that only serves the MbPT's greed.

Map of Mumbai area with red spots marking the "marina" hotspots mentioned in the article

The 2-3 year time span for building a Marina seems very short in Indian terms, it only took 20 years to build the Bandra - Worli sealink after all political and legal hurdles were passed. I don't think a marina is going to make any difference in way of getting the political goodwill and permits to go ahead with such developments. There is always bound to be some goonda that crawls out from under a stone and presents his own angle and agenda to the project when he smells the crores in the air.

A bit up the river a private floating jetty of marina standard

It sounds very fatalistic but I've seen and read how things work in India and it is not nearly easy or smooth despite how much the wheels are greased up. Maybe the marina development will present another avenue for illegal sand dredging activities that are reported in newspapers.

Bottom line is that there is a growing yachting community in Mumbai area as Aashim Mongia says. If nothing is done to service this clientele they are going to find their own venues in more favorable locations and disappear from Mumbai (taking away the revenue and employment that could be generated). As I blogged earlier all yachties have had great difficulties finding monsoon storage for their boats since the Prince's dock was made unavailable.

Aashim Mongia of Westcoast Marine Services

Some boats went all the way down to Goa and some boats pooled together and rented a space in Belapur which is normally used for sand business and during these rainy months has been more of a mud pool than a boat yard. Few boats went down to Mandwa and beached their boats on mudflats during spring tide.

Lets hope the Mumbai Mirror article is the harbinger of change in attitude and the light at the end of the tunnel for the yachting fraternity in Mumbai.

Marinas, Parks and Recreation Developments: Proceedings of the International Conference : Milwaukee, Wisconsin June 26-30, 1994

Marinas: A Working Guide to Their Development and Design





Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Mumbai oil spill - epilogue

So the MSC Chitra is still sitting there on Prong Reef and waiting to be salved. By this time I understand Smit Lloyd has the contract for salving both cargo and vessel. I read the vessel will be a full write off, I hope she will be floated and towed off to ship breakers.

Leaving her where she is now could alter the marine climate severely. I was told by a local accredited reef surveyor I happened to meet that Prong Reef has wonderful corals there. I can only imagine what is the damage there now after all the heavy fuel oil that has leaked out.

Chitra can't blame it on Khalijia writes Mumbai Mirror but reading the article I can deem the Khalijia III came in on port side of MSC Chitra and was in error as the management claims. Also the Police argues correctly that action should have been take earlier to avoid the collision.

Pink color showing Khalijia III, red MSC Chitra

Compensation notice slapped on Chitra writes DNA but does not delve in the reasons of the collision and what caused the oil spill (Khalijia III's impact on Chitra).

Oil clean up in front of Colaba by Navy Cadets. I hope this incident will still be remembered when they get older and some of them hopefully into positions where they can make a difference.

Ravens eating dead fish on the Mandwa beach

Chitra too old for high seas was written in Mumbai Mirror is a new rule for me. I don't know where they have dug up that International ports do not allow vessels that are older than 20 yrs of age alongside. My opinion is that as long as the vessel is properly surveyed by Class society and carries the requisite valid certificates to prove it as well as the mandatory insurances (pollution, hull, machinery, crew) she is legally seaworthy and if anything happens in between surveys it is the Master's duty to report to the Company that his vessel is not fit for sea.

State wants 3cr for cleanup op on (30mil INR ~ 6.00.000 USD) it still sounds cheap in my ears.

No clean chit for Captain's and here they touch the issue of why this led to an accident.

Another plot showing both vessels in the channel, blue Khalijia III, red MSC Chitra

Oil spill extent imagery is being published by the India's space research agency and it can be clearly seen that the oil has spread far up into Navi Mumbai and down to Alibag (as I also have experienced first hand). While I was down in Alibag I took a stroll down the beach and met three chaps from the MNHS (Mumbai Natural History Society) and they told me they had been commissioned to survey the whole Maharashtra coast for the damages.

Mandwa beach littered with oil smeared cookie packets

Meanwhile the debate has spurned off some interesting dialogue and brought daylight on some other issues like e.g. shipping empty containers with papers that they contain export goods in a scam to cheat the government on tax money, see this: Chitra containers stuffed with scrap.

Pollution on Mandwa beach

The other good thing that may have come out of this debacle is that India is considering to sign the bunker pact on oil spilled by vessels.

Dead fish on Mandwa beach after pollution

The piece the resistance comes in the black box transcript from MSC Chitra published by Expressindia.com. I have copied it down below as the website may be virus infected according to my web browser:

The transcript of the SVDR recording:9:35:04: Chitra turns to Starboard 20
9:35:05: CHITRA: “Isko kya ho gaya?” (What is he doing?) (Captain of Chitra reacting to what appears to be MV Khalijia swerving sharply to port side after having stayed on her starboard side while approaching the navigational channel)
9:35:25: KHALIJIA 3: “MSC, MSC, this is Khalijia 3. I am altering to port. I am altering my course to port. Pass on my starboard. Over.”
9:35:37: KHALIJIA 3: “MSC MSC, this is Khalijia 3. I am altering to port. I am altering to port. You also to port please.”
9:35:37: CHITRA: “Paagal ho gaya hai kya?” (Is he crazy?) (Captain of Chitra talking on board, appears to be talking to a duty officer)
9:35:41: CHITRA: “Hard starboard” (urgently, ordering finally evasive action, too late)
9:35:49: KHALIJIA 3: “MSC, MSC. Alter to port please.”
9:35:51: KHALIJIA 3: “Alter to port please.” 

9:35:59: “Alter to port.”

Below are a few videos shedding further light on the accident:

Showing Khalijia III & MSC Chitra right after collision

This is one of the first reports showing Officials and Chitra

This is a Hindi report of the accident showing diagrams of how the collision happened, very illuminating

Now, having read the black box transcript and seen the last video with the diagrams I would dare to opine that Khalijia III may have had some steering issues, perhaps due to technical reasons. MSC Chitra may have been doing "dead slow" on her engine (slow rudder response) and then reacted too slowly to the sudden threat developed by Khalijia III's unexpected continued turn. Captain of Chitra correctly by the rules also turned to starboard in case Khalijia III would manage to go to starboard (thats why he asked his Duty Officer if he [Capt of Khalijia III] is crazy as nobody usually makes a port evasive turn). Instead of talking on the VHF a rudder maneuver should have been immediately ordered. Khalijia III should have taken full astern on her engine when she realised something is wrong with her steering. (Easy to be after smart here).

These points will be considered in the arbitration court in London where the ratio of who pays how much of the lost cargo, written off vessels, lost charter time, oil spill cleanup etc.

Not least but last I read an article by Darryl D'Monte going very deep into root causes of the cost of oil. I have taken liberty to quote a few passages from the article:


"The irony is that MbPT is part of history and should now be phased out. It had its heyday during the East India Co and British Raj when it handled much of the trade. "

"What is more, MbPT occupies 1,800 acres of prime real estate in the island city, three times the area of the city’s controversial mill lands, and could be redeveloped as a recreation and housing hub. Of course, the needs of the few thousand remaining dock workers have to be accommodated, but many of the world’s cities have seen a makeover of their docklands, London in particular."



These issues I have blogged about earlier and is showing MbPT's greed in how they are now developing the Prince's dock into a container terminal when they should be looking at getting the container traffic to places where it belongs, i.e. closer to the industries and not population. Instead they are inviting more ships into the port and also increasing the risk of further accidents in the future.


Sunday, August 15, 2010

Mumbai oil spill

It was an ordinary day on August 9th when it was announced in the news that two cargo ships, MSC Chitra and Khalijia III had collided just in front of Mumbai harbor and that one of them was sinking. When MSC Chitra sank, or rather, was beached on Prong Reef, she started leaking out heavy fuel oil (HFO). Official estimates was that around 800 tons leaked out in Mumbai waters and about 500 containers had fallen into the sea.

MSC Chitra (picture courtesy of www.today24news.com)

Reports states that MSC Chitra was on the way out of Mumbai harbor enroute to Gujarat while the Khalijia III was on anchorage and was on the way into the harbor. I have not seen any diagrams of how the collision has taken place but first impression is that this accident could have been avoided with better lookout.
  
All the colors of the rainbow at Belapur

We could also see the effect of the accident very clearly in our smeared water line and dirty tenderboat as well as the floating lumps of congealed HFO that come by with the currents. Worst with HFO is that it comes off with great difficulty and we have to brush off our tender every night.  While Media was talking about the oil slick that was nearing Elephanta and posing a risk to the mangroves it was already there. The Authorities did nothing except talk a lot at first, it seemed no oil spill contingency plan had been made. Then the traffic was closed to Mumbai port and the Indian Navy was called upon to spray dispersant that makes the HFO sink to the bottom of the sea. After that International salvers were called but as it seems the closest Salver was in Singapore it'll take some time before they can arrive to the scene.

HFO pollution on shores

Some days later even the Belapur jetty was black with HFO and cookie packets from containers floated to the shores that local people opened for the stray dogs to eat. Authorities advised fishermen not to catch fish, still I watched people venturing out to ea every morning for fishing. It is hard when it is your only livelihood. I wonder if they managed to sell their catch at all.

Stranded cookie packets from containers

We also saw at times (and reported to the VTS) containers floating by our anchorage position. While tendering ashore there is still one container stranded in the mangroves. News reports that some of these containers carry some very hazardous chemicals inside them.

Acquaintances told me that the Marine drive was also littered with big splotches of HFO as well as the mangrove at Colaba near the Navy area seems to be totally gone black from HFO. At least here in Belapur area I have not seen any anti-pollution measures taken. I suppose there are no equipment for this kind of incidents. The response from the Authorities has been inadequate, one only has to wonder what would happen if an oil spill of the BP magnitude would happen at the Indian coast?
Soon after the accident the blame game started, the pilots were blamed on leaving the vessel too early at Middle Ground, the vessel traffic management system (VTS) was blamed on not monitoring the traffic, the ships blamed they had been on different radio channels and each other, the crew blamed the port officials, politicians started pointing at each other and so on.
The fact remains that a collision happened in fair weather during broad daylight that lead to a minor environmental disaster.

My opinon of current affairs would be:
- The pilot leaving the ship earlier is a normal praxis in most ports when the seaconditions are bad and in Mumbai the swell is quite high. From Middle ground there is only one pair of buoys (visible by eye) to be passed and after that any course can be taken (depending on your destination), any navigator can master this task, it is like driving to the next lights and take a turn. I'm sure the pilot advised the Captain where to proceed and also the current traffic in the vicinity. If the Master agreed to let the pilot disembark it was his decision as he could have expressed his inexperience in the area and ask the pilot to stay until port limits. Anyway, legally pilots are not responsible of the ships they pilot, they just give advice and while most Masters let the pilots take their ships in/ out of ports they are always in the end responsible for what the pilot does. Hence the Master/ Officer on duty should always double check the orders and decisions taken by the pilot as per good seamanship;

- While the VTS is tasked on monitoring the traffic they are not responsible for individual vessels movements, they can advise of dangers though and it is the Master's task to navigate as per the Rules of the Road (COLREG's). My experience of Mumbai VTS is that they are far too stretched to be able to effectively monitor everything that happens in Mumbai port. Even here the legal aspect falls on the Master, the VTS is just a tool for him;

- My question is that what did the Master/ Officer on watch do on both vessels? It was daylight and fair weather, no rain and good visibility as well as plenty of deep water to move around in. In such coastal navigation areas I'm sure that the both vessels Insternational Safety Management Systems (ISM) stipulated that the bridge manning should have consisted at least of the Master, Officer of the Watch, lookout and helmsman. Did none of these 8 pairs of eyes realize there was a close quarter situation developing? I'm sure the accident reports that will be filed by both Masters must be nothing short of an award in science fiction;

- Media had a field day on the fact that both vessels were on different radio channels and could not communicate with each other. I am and have always been against this kind of radio navigation as one can never be sure what is being said and with whom. Furthermore the COLREG's gives clear rules of the road, who has "right of way" and who is the "give away vessel" in various situations. COLREG's even stipulate that in the event that it seems the "give away vessel" is not taking evasive action the "right of way vessel" is then obligated to do so. Some might argue about what is the distance to 2 vessels when this regulation comes into force and in my opinion it depends on the size of the vessel. The bigger the vessel, the longer the distance, as one has to judge the "point of no return" when the other and your own vessel is not able to avoid a collision whatever measures are taken. If I would be the OOW or Master I would never like to be that close. In the end the radio channel has no effect on the navigation whatsoever as they do not steer the ship, the man in command does it. Legally they will be blamed for this neglect though, as they should have been in radio contact as has been judged in many courts regarding several collision incidents;

- Media put some notice that MSC Chitra had Port State deficiencies but it was not detained in New Zealand and Australia earlier. As per Equasis she has been having Port State issues since 1998 (or even earlier) but only once in 1998 was she detained in Italy. Same fact also applies to Khalijia III, she has also been having Port State deficiencies since 1999 (or even earlier) and she has been detained twice once in 2001 in Italy and once in 2007 in India. MSC Chitra was built in 1980 and Khalijia in 1985 so even the age points to the fact that these both ships are approaching the end of their service life;

- Whatever the condition of the ships it has not been reported it was a technical failure so my only million dollar question remains: What were the personnel doing on the bridge if not looking out of the window to monitor the close quarter situation developing?

The sun still shines on Mumbai

In the end I'm guessing both Companies will be implicated and an arbiter will assess who had more fault than the other and the salvage and oil spill damages will be split on a ratio, perhaps 70/30 or along those lines. The public media will forget this issue when a new scandal or catastrophy emerges and life will go on...

Below are links to news articles about the issue:



Aug 9





Aug 11



Aug 12


Aug 13

Aug 14


Aug 15