Saturday, May 15, 2010

Sights in Delhi

After getting our car and driver hired we set the route and out first point of call was Jantar Mantar. It is a compound with huge observation instruments (yantras) for celestial movements, azimuth & altitude and also time. Originally built by the Maharaj Sawai Jai Singhji of Jaipur in 1710 it is still standing (restored 1910) and it is also listed as a UNESCO preservation site. One could still see the carefully carved measuring scales on the stones and each instrument had a plaque explaining for what celestial body was being measured (declination, time, etc). I did not linger long and left for our next stop.

One of the Yantras
More info here



Qutb Minar

Next on stop was Qutb Minar (pronounced Qutab) some way from old Delhi. It is a 5-6 story tower in a compound now with a defunct mosque Quwwatul-Islam (Might of Islam) that was built from parts of 27 Jain and Hindu temples in 1197. The mosque had some very beautiful stone carvings.

The old mosque

As a quriosity it has a metal pillar that according to archeologists hails from Bihar and is of hindu origin. The pillar is still perplexing researchers as to why it does not corrode after so many hundreds years. Local superstition says that if you can grasp your hands with your back against the pillar all your troubles will be solved. Unfortunately it was not possible to try it as a fence has been erected around it preventing people from touching it.

The iron pillar

This site is also on the UNESCO protection list, see more here

Me tomb raiding Qutb Minar



The Bahai faith Lotus temple is a huge construct looking like a partially open Lotus flower. We parked at the parking lot after diligent checking of boot and engine compartment with mirrors. Apparently the terror risk is present so no risks are taken for any possible bombings.

Lotus temple

 From the parking lot we came by the admin buiding where I suppose the last conversion takes place as it said something like "familiarisation centre". The was along bee line going towards the temple itself and about half way we had to remove our shoes. I've gotten used to that practice in Burma where one must always remove shoes when entering the Temple compound. The ony bad thing here was that the walk way up was done in red sand stone and it was scorching hot. There was a carpet placed that was leading up but it was not much cooler, at least it prevented serious burns to my soles.

Once at the shadow of the Lotus we were arranged in rows and explained in hindi how to behave in the church (no talking, no photos, no running, etc.) and then we were let inside. Once started to walk in one muppet came up to me starting to explain the same thing in English, I did not stop to listen as it was not my first in a church and I had checked up the Bahai faith from before. He seemed a bit peeved about it, but Saini told him he translated the hindi explanation to me already.

Inside was very quiet and peaceful, only birds flying inside the church made some noise. The trappings inside were very simple, plain wooden benches and a small speakers podium (not raised) was in front. At the corners of the Lotus was plaques with words of wisdom from Baha'u'llah, their prophet.


Those more interested in Bahai can click here



Humayun's tomb

Then it was time to go to the Humayuns tomb (lot of tomb's in Delhi). Actually it is called the "Dormitory of the Mughals" as there are over 100 graves inside the mausoleum. It is a precursor to the Taj Mahal in Agra. This is the earliest example of Persian influenece on Indian architecture, built in 1565. Emperor Akbar i also buried here.

Isa Khan's tomb

While walking towards the Humayun tomb there is another tomb called Isa Khans tomb. According to plaques it used to contain a whole village in the compound once. The wall surrounding the mausoleum has a mosque incorporated and all the trappings for defenses with shooting holes and guard towers.

More info here on Isa Khan and Humayun




India Gate

Now we were on the way to India Gate which is a war memorial for all the fallen soldiers in various wars India had praticipated in. An imposing structure even bigger than the Gateway of India in Mumbai. It was guarded by naval soldiers and an eternal flame was burning under it.



The Red Fort was our next to last item on the list, we were becoming a bit overwhelemed of the cultural overload we had been exposing ourselves the whole day but nevertheless we slogged on. The Red Fort is huge constructon in middle of Delhi, just outside the entrance is Chandni Chowk, the famous shopping street. It is also listed as one of the UNESCO world heritage site.

The dry moat

The Fort is surrounded by a moat that according to my guide book has been bone dry for at least the last 200 years. It was very dry but I think a bit more humid than the other dry areas as verdant green shrubbery was covering the bottom.

The throne terrace

We walked in and came to a walkway through the wall that was lined by curio and souvenir shops. Here I bargained myself a small idol of Durga down to 1000Rs from 1800Rs. I think it was a good deal.

Next we came to the Moghul throne hall where the reception of visitors and audiences were carried out. A huge covered terrace (that used to have awnings reaching out from the building) with a dais for the Moghul to sit on.

Moghul's private quarters

Behind this terrace were the Moghuls private quarters, almost same kind of terraces but walled, very airy. built of marble with a shallow water channel going through all the buildings into the hammam. Separately there was a mosque for the Moghul's private use. The private quarters were facing the other side of the Fort and it had a bacony where it was said the Moghul showed himself every day to his people.

More info here



By now we were quite tired but decided to visit our last highlight on our list (having deleted the Birla temple and Rajghat), the Akshardam temple. It is supposedly the world's largest hindu temple. It certainly was imposing even from a distance. The parking lot was enormous. We were not allowed anything inside, no cameras, no phones and a long list of other items. It would have been easier to list what is allowed inside. Apparently there had been terror incidents so the security was very strict, we were patted down twice very thoroughly.

Akshardam

So, I was allowed to enter with my wallet and clothes on. The temple had very beautiful carvings of elephants surrounding the mandir (main temple), unfortunately it was closed for renovation. Everywhere else were carvings of all kinds of other animals. We went to a sort of history show where one sat in a boat that followed a channel and was passing exhibits if historical highlights of India. The name was 10000yrs of history in 10minutes. I was too tired to wait for the english boat so I took the hindi boat and relied on Saini's translation, well done exhibit.

There would have also been 2 other shows, the singing fountain and somekind of movie but by now we had our mettle full and so we left the temple not having the patience to queue up. Besides time was running late. At the exit there was a souvenir shop and I could also see what encouraged to keep cameras out of the temple. The sale of postcards was going well. I bought a set + a box of keyrings and at the ayurvedic counter a bottle of Aloe Vera concentrated juice.

The driver picked us up and dropped us off at the local bus station. We tipped him 100Rs on top the fee of 1500Rs and he was quite happy about it. Moreover he had earned another 500Rs on us (kickback) for taking us to a tourist shop where we bought nothing.

More on Akshardam

Saturday, May 01, 2010

Captain's blog April 2010

As you may have read we have been traveling for most of April and are now relocated from Thailand to India.
 
Gateway of India

It is purported that we will stay for the rainseason in India and work on our commercial yacht certification which eventually will not keep us busy until the end of this year. As to where we will stay this period is still not confirmed we are looking into Victoria Docks, Dhabol and Jaigarh.
 
In Mumbai unfortunately the Victoria docks are being filled up to make way for a container terminal and losing it's colonial heritage. This being the situation and the only safe place where to stay during the monsoon it leaves not much options but to look for berths outside of Mumbai (Dhabol & Jaigarh). I'm going to check out these ports in the near future.

As for crew changes I sent Saini for vacation but had to recall him for the transit and now he is back again enjoying his off time. Vivek signed off to pursue his tanker career and I wish him all the best in his endeavours. Kalpana joined us after her annual vacation in Mumbai, that must have been such a relief for her considering how seasick she gets.
 
Talking about seasickness, Asen found her sealegs, she was only sick for a day and then there was no more throwing up and lying about like a dead sardine.

Richard has started taking French lessons as it is anticipated that he will be transferred to France in the near future. C'est la vie...
 
We arrived Mumbai the 21st and arrangements started to setup the yacht for Owner's use. Satellite TV subscriptions had to be re activated, flower arrangements, stock up of refreshments and provisions, wash down, brass polishing.... the list went on and on as usual.

I went with Richard to Crawford and Colaba to find the things we needed for our guests.

Richard coming out from Crawford Market

Lintel at Crawford Market

Butcher shop in Colaba, prolly only place to get decent pork

Gokul restaurant - great veg & non veg wraps as take away

Then finally on the 24th midnight we got the Owner onboard after the Royal Challengers won 3rd place in the IPL. 

Next days went getting quotes for various jobs, annual safety inspections and certifications has to be renewed. Also the interior requires some more sprucing up. Same time we brainstormed a letter for the MCA regarding our commercial certification. Like they say, the job never ends on a boat.

Mumbai itself looks like it did a year ago, some buildings have been restored and other are under restoration. The black and yellow Premier taxis still roam the streets but definitely there is a reduction in numbers as the government is allowing other cars also being used as taxis now.

No doubt the Pinocchio of India

Mumbai roads & architecture

One evening I was out on town I saw a peculiar procession of guys with fish hooks through their back pulling four wheeled carts and with 2-3m metal rods stuck through their chins. I was later told it was a Chaitra Navratri (similar to Thaipusam) hindu celebration (ninth day after the hindu new year often the first new moon of the new year).

Chaitra Navrati believers

My annual is also coming up and I am waiting for Avnish to come and relieve me for a month of R & R. Until then...

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Chaitra Navratri celebration in Mumbai


Goddess Durga

As I was walking along the street with Richard on the way back to the yacht we met a procession of people coming towards us and making a very loud racket by beating on drums. People were dancing and then I saw the strangest thing, men with 3m metal rods punched through their chins and then I saw they had huge fish hooks through their back skin and they were pulling small delivery trucks along the road. At time they would stop and people woud come and kow-tow their feet for good luck I assume. I also saw one old grandma putting a young baby for one of the men to step over. Also for god luck I suppose. At the end of the procession I could see a horse cart with a Sai Baba statue being pulled by a devotee. All the time the drumming went on and on.


Later on I would learn from my guys that this was the celebration of the 9th day after the Hindu New Year and also the 1st full moon of the year. It is called Chaitra Navratri or Chitra Purnima. I have taken the liberty of reproducing an explanation below of said festival written by Sri Swami Sivananda. Nowhere could I find any explanation of the kavadi (piercings) that was being done.

- - - -


Chitra Purnima

THE TWELVE months of the Hindu year, based on the lunar calendar, are named after that star during whose ascendency the full moon of that month occurs. The full moon day of Chaitra month, that is, the Purnima during the ascendency of the Chitra star is particularly sacred to the Chitra Guptas, the recording angels of the Hindu pantheon. A special worship is offered to these celestial representatives of the god of death, and an offering of spiced rice is prepared and later distributed as prasad or holy sacrament. A fire worship is done at the close of the ritualistic worship. By the performance of this religious observance annually, these angels of the other world are greatly pleased and judge man’s actions with more sympathy.
The psychological effect of this worship, done on the very first full moon day of every year (Chaitra is the first of the twelve months), is to vividly remind us of the higher power that maintains a constant watch over every act of ours on this earth-plane. This memory serves as an invisible check on one’s conduct. The conception of the Chitra Guptas as located within each shoulder is a powerful inducement to keep oneself engaged in constantly doing good actions only.

The term Chitra Gupta means “hidden picture”. A true picture of all our good and evil actions is preserved in the ethereal records. The Hindu personifies it for the sake of worship. The real significance of the worship of the Chitra Guptas is beautifully brought out in the following story connected with it.

Brihaspati is the Guru or preceptor of Indra, the king of the gods. Indra disobeyed Brihaspati on one occasion and the Guru relinquished his task of instructing Indra in what he should and should not do. During the period of the Guru’s absence, Indra did many evil deeds. When the compassionate Guru resumed his duty again, Indra wanted to know what he should do to expiate the wrongs he had done in his Guru’s absence. Brihaspati asked Indra to undertake a pilgrimage.

While Indra was on pilgrimage, he suddenly felt the load of sins taken off his shoulders at a certain place (near Madurai in South India), and he discovered a Shiva Lingam there. He attributed the miracle to this Lingam and wanted to build a temple for it. He had this constructed immediately. Now he wished to perform the worship of the Lingam; the Lord Himself caused golden lotuses to appear in a nearby pond. Indra was greatly pleased and blessed. The day on which he thus worshipped the Lord was Chitra Purnima.

When you perform worship on the Chitra Purnima day, remember this story. If you have intense faith, if you feel with a contrite heart that you have committed sins on account of ignorance, if you pray with faith and devotion to the Lord to forgive your sins, if you resolve never to commit them in the future, and if you resolve to be obedient to your Guru and never to flout his counsel, then your sins will be forgiven. There is no doubt about this. This is the significance of the above story of Indra. Meditate on this story on Chitra Purnima day.
The Hindu scriptures prescribe elaborate worship of the Chitra Guptas on this day. The Deity is invoked in an image or a kalasa (vessel filled with water) and then worshipped with all the rituals and formalities of the worship offered to God’s image. Meditate on Chitra Gupta, reciting the following verse:


Chitra guptam mahaa praajnam lekhaneepatra dhaarinam;

Chitra-ratnaambara-dhaararn madhyastham sarvadehinaam.

Then offer ritualistic worship with incense, camphor, flowers, etc. Feed some Brahmins, the poor and the needy. Give bountifully in charity and receive the Lord’s blessings.

- - - - -

The whole thing resembled very much the Thaipusam celebration and the Tessagan Kin Ge in Thailand (which I saw earlier and posted a blog abt). As far as I know Thaipusam is banned in India because of the blood and gore involved in the piercings and I suppose also the risk of disease. It is still being celebrated in Singapore and Malaysia though.

I'm not very well versed in hinduism, so I apologize for any mistakes I have made in this posting and gladly take corrections from those who know better.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Voyage Langkawi - Colombo - Mumbai

1st April we arrived Langkawi and made fast to RLYC. By then I had already got sailing orders for Goa. I was picking up some stuff for the yacht, new fenders and fresh medicines. Lest we forget to get some bunkers onboard as well as fresh provisions. Saini was called back from vacation and on 9th we cast off RLYC and moved alongside the bunker barge. After bunkering I bid our agent, Nick Coombes, goodbye and headed west.

Asen and Rajaram on night before departure

First 3 days we're absolutely marvelous. The sea was most of the time mirror calm with only a small swell coming from south. We even sighted some whales with 4km of water beneath us. The usual flying fish accompanied us all the way and of course seagulls. As we we're going the shortest way and not via Andamans, as last year, we always had company by passing merchant ships on the AIS or visually. They we're headed either for Middle East or beyond Singapore.



Smooth sailing

When approaching the Sri Lankan south east coast we got a local low pressure system giving us overcast weather with accompanied rain showers and moderate seas, we were getting 20deg lists whilst rolling. Last day at sea before arriving Colombo was ok, Kalizma was pitching a bit and the swell was coming in from SW.

Local low pressure system pouring down rain

Approaching Sri Lanka and bad weather

Same as above on my radar

15th April early morning we approached Colombo and the day dawned to a yellow cloud of pollution over the capital of Sri Lanka. 

Colombo port entrance

16th went provisioning and bunkering up in Colombo. We also got new sailing orders: Mumbai.

Morning 17th Upali had got our port clearance done and at 1100hrs I cast off Colombo and set my course for Mumbai. The weather was overcast with sunny patches. 

In the night we got pretty strong thundershowers following us and we also got our share of torrential rain and lighting show. Gulf of Mannar can be bad at times but we got lucky as the winds missed us this time.

Sunrise over Cape Comorin

By 18th we were passing Richards homestead near Cape Comorin and the weather was still favoring us. Boys were washing up decks and superstructures. We also saw some whales leisurely swimming southwards.

19th to 21st we were sailing up the west coast of India and it mainly was good weather until evening 20th when we passed Vengurla. The weather turned a bit sour and we were pounding up against waves, wind and current. The nature was not making it easy for us to reach our destination. As the seas were relatively calm the fishermen were out en masse so we had to keep a keen lookout to avoid any critical situations. 



Sunrise over west coast


21st afternoon I picked up pilot at 1440hrs and headed into Mumbai port. The pilot informed that the port was operating at security level 2 as the IPL finals were taking place in Mumbai this coming weekend. Apparently the powers to be weren't going to take any chances of a repeat Taj incident (2008). A week back there had been bomb blasts in Bangalore during the cricket match where 12 people was injured. 


Mumbai skyline


Finally I dropped anchor in front of Gateway of India that was really jampacked with yachts. It would be high time Mumbai to develop a marina. So, thus our 13 days journey had come to an end.


Taj Hotel and Gateway of India


I was met by our agent Rami and Alam who came with the bureaucrat posse to clear us in the country. . .

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Sri Jinaratana Bhikku Abhyasa Vidyalaya temple

As Sri Lanka is 80% Buddhist as were our driver he took me to visit a temple, Sri Jinaratana Bhikku Abhyasa Vidyalaya. The temple had surprisingly many Chinese style deities there, I assume donated by various benefactors. 

This Chinese general had his spear missing

Another Chinese deity

I also saw the Hindu Goddess Parvati as well (I think). 

Parvati

The main temple was beautiful and at the time there was a 3 man combo playing drums and flute for some reason I had never encountered before in any other Buddhist temples I've visited in other countries. 


While walking around the compound I also came across a baby elephant that seemed to be somekind of mascot (maybe orphaned) for the monks there. I was told there was 15 monks currently resident at the temple.

The pet elephant

Markets of Colombo

We went in the morning to Colombo fish market which was actually quite close to the main port. As soon as I stepped out of the car I could smell the pungent fish aroma coming strong into my nostrils. Richard mumbled "Oh my God, this is worse than Crawford market". maybe so but fish had to be bought.

The fish vendor

In we went and walked around to see what was on display. Most of the fish for sale was tuna, tuna and more tuna. There was also other deep sea fish that I would not know what species they were but some of them were really big. Then there was the usual shrimp, lobster, squid and crab assortments and some reef fish as well. We settled on some fish, shrimp and squid. The shrimp was so fresh that the seller bit one off in front of us to prove it. The smell might have been a bit on the strong side but the goods were definitely fresh.

The man and his fish

After buying what we came for we got some chicken and eggs from shops adjacent to the fish stalls. Then we went in search for some more vegetables, spices and pork. The vegetables were a bit scarce as the country was still recovering from New Years celebrations but what was available was fresh and nice. Pork we could not find, the only butchers we came across were all muslim and they don't understandably sell it. Richard was in his own element as many vendors were Tamils and he could haggle in his mother tongue. 

Richard at the banana shop


The herb vendor

As usual when entering the port we had to grease hands as the rule says nobody is allowed to bring inside anything, one should use a shipchandler (and pay triple prices). Oh well, 400 rupees (4 USD) did the trick and we had our groceries onboard... 

Port entrance - STOP, please open the what???

Colombo stopover

15th April early morning we approached Colombo and the day dawned to a yellow cloud of pollution over the capital of Sri Lanka. Reminded me of the same view when I was sailing into Hong Kong years ago on a casino ship. Every morning we saw what we were going to breathe during the day.

A new day in Colombo

In Colombo we were first inspected by the Navy. They sent divers under the hull to check the bottom for IED's I assume. Once done we got the green light to proceed inside the harbor. Port sent me a harbor pilot and as custom dictates in this corner of the world he asked for a "souvenir" once we were safely alongside JCT (Jaya container terminal) north extension at 1030hrs. I gave him a bottle of Black Dog.

Kalizma alongside JCT

 Once finished with engines and shut down the bridge I went to greet our agent from before, Mr. Upali Gooneratne. The paper shuffle was about to begin. Only the Officials were lazy to attend to us as the Sinhalese New Year had been last night so people were stlll in a holiday mood. Finally, I got the immigration, port health and Customs onboard after Upali had chased them up several times. The clearance was painless as I smoothed it over with Signature whisky for each department. We were cleared at abt 1400hrs.

Parliament house

Half day had gone waiting for doing the clearance so now we had to hurry to get some provisioning done. Upali arranged a car and driver so me and Richard got going to a local supermarket where we stocked up with essentials. We also got a bottle of famous Sri Lankan arrack. Colombo still has many colonial buildings left from the English era and the roads are wide and clean. The paranoia from 3 years strife with the LTTE is still showing with the many road stops, blocks and checks everywhere. Soldiers are openly wielding assault rifles (AK-47's).
Colonial architecture - the Cargill Building

Again bringing stuff inside the port proved to be tricky as the security guards at the gate said it was not allowed. I find it very annoying that when one has paid VAT and all, we are not allowed to bring it onboard (!?). I can understand that fees and taxes apply when bring something ashore but not vice versa. Not to talk about all the liquor the officials extract from all the ships and probably finally sell it somewhere (otherwise they would be walking perpetually drunk). Colombo port still has a long way to go to become visitor friendly.

The Grand Oriental Hotel where I stayed in 2007

Next day 16th Upali was working most of the day getting permission for our bunker truck to enter the port. I went to the open fish and vegetable market with Richard. Finally late afternoon we got the bunkering started and once finished we were all set. Same evening I got a call from India changing our sailing orders, new destination: Mumbai, the IPL finals. More work for Upali to change our port clearance.

Colonial architecture

Morning 17th Upali had got our port clearance done and at 1100hrs I cast off Colombo and set my course for Mumbai. The weather was overcast with sunny patches. In the night we got pretty strong thundershowers following us and we also got our share of torrential rain and lighting show. Gulf of Mannar can be bad at times but we got lucky as the winds missed us this time. 

Cats of Colombo


The white house of Colombo - City Hall

A Mosque and Church next to each other


Tuk-tuk galore