Seafaring culture

An old colleague of mine, Lauri Vuorinen, published his musings in Finnish that I have freely translated into English. On the subject, the pictures are all courtesy from another colleague Hannu Vartiainen from 70's-80's.

Delivery Djibouti to Cyprus

Having been awhile at home I was contacted by my ex Ch Mate to do a short delivery of m/y Kalizma from Djibouti to Turkey and as I thought I have time I agreed on it readily and as I had been on her several years ago, last time back in 2012, I knew the yacht and her flaws. She had since 2012 been refitted and undergone survey to become a commercial yacht under Cook Island and successfully chartered in Indian Ocean the past years.

Said and done I received my flight tickets a few weeks later after the initial contact and flew down to Djibouti via Istanbul. Arrived more or less on time and exited the plane to go through the formalities I got the 1st indications of being in Africa.

Had to shell out bribes to get my arrival stamp, of course no receipt was given but got the stamp. Same was for the other seafarers behind me in same line, totally open and accepted. At the Customs I was made to open the bag and it was rooted around in, luckily nothing illegal was found and I could continue out of the terminal and find my ride.

Planned voyage Djibouti to Turkey, possibly Bodrum

Sail training ship Fennia

Having visited Falklands I came over the information by accident in a pub that a Finnish sailing vessel, FENNIA, had in early 1900's limped into Port Stanley jury rigged after having been partly demasted in a severe storm. 

Poster of shipwrecks around Falklands

Project s/y Fanny Port Said to Kastelorizo and Rhodos

 Before arriving Med I had been watching the weather and it looked like we had a small chance of getting weather with us. As we exited the Canal it was obvious it wasn't going to happen, sods law I guess. The wind was blowing between W and NW and if we tried to getting a WSW course it was SW and going the other tack we went NNE. As Egypt was in the way and the weather blowing from NW I thought better take the better way and escape N wards, the wind might change (fat chance!). So we tacked and were effectively heading for Cyprus. The only comfort was that we were heading for EU at least. As we progressed further N we were able to come to a heading of NNW and avoided hitting Cyprus but then we had the mainland of Turkey ahead of us. 

Sunset

Project s/y Fanny Sawakin to Suez and Port Said

As we got going from Sawakin on the 5th of June we had pretty good weather but the wind was increasing again from NW and that's where we were heading. Come evening the wind was already up, we could not sail against it so we motored. Next day we had massive rollers coming at us and winds up to 20-25kts, we were making hardly 2kts headway on engines. There was nowhere to hide and no shelter to sail in so we were totally exposed. We tried the motoring way for a day and saw it is not getting us nowhere so only one option remained, to sail.

Sudanese lighthouse

Project s/y Fanny - Thailand to Malaysia

 After having done the rounds in Phuket I one evening met a Malaysian chap that had been refurbishing a 10yr old second hand 45' Lagoon catamaran for the purpose of world wide traveling. 

P fwd guest cabin

Project s/y Fanny in Thailand

​In January​​ having arrived with Boadicea to Thailand I was ashore one evening having a few refreshments and was standing on the street near the marina at a local watering hole. 

It literally was a hole in the wall,  a small bar where the waitress handed out drinks and customers stood on the street. 

The extended stern

BRYC closing regatta

On the 7th I was invited to participate in the Bombay Royal Yacht Club's season closing regatta. It is customarily done on the estimated last weekend before the rains start. The day was sunny and wind was there as well so all the elements were there for an enjoyable afternoon.

Cmde Mongia at the wheel

I boarded Cmde Mongia's s/y Ninikins as a spectator to compete with 2 other boats in the same size class and I was showed where I could sit without being in the way. The principle of sailing is not unfamiliar for me at all but the machinations of a bigger sailing yacht was new to me. As a kid I used to do a lot of optimist and windsurfing so I knew the basics.

Chetan Fernandes

The sailing crew was Nitin Mongia and Chetan Fernandes, both old timers in the sailing circuit in Mumbai and India if not even Internationally. Then there was a a local group following Nitin and Chetan to come and help as well as to enjoy the camaraderie of the friendly regatta.

Closing to the turning point

The boats circled about the start buoy and came into somekind of agreed pattern with the big boats leaving first and then the smaller ones. Then we waited for the yacht club officials to hoist the start flag and once it was up it was away with all boats. We took the lead at first and held it until we came with the wind from astern it was time to hoist the spinnaker. Unfortunately our old hands messed up the spinnaker and before it was untangled another boat had taken the lead.

M/y Kalizma

M/y Ashena

We tried to gain on the lead but the going was slow, at best we did 7 knots. Some distance was gained but in the end we came in on the 2nd position but the afternoon was not so much for competition, it was more of a social gathering and having fun one afternoon.

Cdr Dilip Donde arrives Mumbai

S/y Mhadei

Yesterday while I was doing some office work in my cabin I wondered what sort of close quarters situations the pilots of Mumbai are getting into today as I heard frequently loud whistle blowing. As it did not concern me I did not give it any second thought and continued my work.

Navy frigate, Helicopter, Mhadei & Offshore vessel

Today I was called by Dubey to come out and watch the escort of Indian Navy Commander Dilip Donde as he was arriving from his solo circumnavigation of the world, voyage distance abt 42000km. The first Indian to ever accomplish this feat.

The civilian local sailors join the escort

And what an escort he had, one big frigate, helicopters and 2 offshore vessels with their fire fighting cannons going on full spray while all vessels were sounding their horns. At the Sunk Rock a big fleet of the local sailing boats were waiting and while the Mhadei was passing they all joined the cavalcade. The procession went past us and continued into the Navy base by the Ballard estate. Commander Donde's almost one year voyage had come to an end. Well done!

Almost passing Middle Ground

Now the Indians have gone around the world, next stop is the moon?

The escort and horn blowing for s/y Mhadei

Those who want to read more about Cdr Donde's voyage can go here